Fabric lining (partial leather) in Shoes ?

[Guest]

Gentlemen,
I tried on pair of shoes that seems to have good quality (suede) leather uppers, leather
insoles, and good construction. I was suprised to see part of the upper - towards the toebox - was lined with fabric (I assume cotton) rather than leather.

Is this just an easy way to save costs, or is there a practice reason for this type of
construction? Does suede lend itself to this type of lining, to help with breathability ?

[Guest]

I know that many of the models in the old Custom Grade line of Church's had linen linings in the front. I was told this was to increase breathability. I cannot say whether it was more or less breathable, but at one point, most of my shoes were from that line and my toes did eventually wear through the linen. Even so, I would usually get two to three re-solings out of a pair and when the shoes were tossed, it would be because the upper leather cracked, not because of the linings.

[Guest]

Certainly linen linings of the vamp of the shoe are not uncommon. Someone I know who has been in the footwear trade for decades, and who trained at the Cordwainers College in London, has told me he believes the linen is superior to leather as a lining material. That being said, all the bespoke shoes I know of and all modern-day high end RTW shoes have full leather linings (assuming they are lined at all). I prefer the aesthetics of the full leather lining and have always looked askance at the fabric lining, but perhaps that is based on my ignorance.

[Guest]

Old textbooks on shoemaking like Golding used to stress the superiority of textile front linings. I can’t comment. as I have very little experience of linen or cotton linings. They used to be quite common, but have more or less disappeared. It might have something to do with perceived value.

If you like the shoe and it fits well, I wouldn’t be put off from purchase by the textile lining.

Rolf

[Guest]

My shoemaker tells me that cotton (or linen) vamp lining helps the shoe dry quicker and more completely after having been worn. Moreover, with time (years) the leather lining of the vamp will absorb the salts present in perspiration, become stiffer and prone to cracking - not the case of textile lining. Plus the shoe stays to be cooler in summer.

Costi