DB formaility
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Guest
Is it correct to say that historically the DB is a less fomal suit than the SB, although, the DB is today perceived as a 'dressier' choice?
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Guest
Ouh, a difficult one.
Back in the 19th century, the most formal would have been court dress, which indeed then was mostly single breasted, but this really is a shape and cut that goes back to the 17th century.
A rang below would have been the tailcoat for evening and the frock coat for day dress. The former is DB, the latter mostly DB although SB variants exist.
I would place the Cutaway (today's morning dress) a notch below in formality, and it is technically SB (although DB variants do exist, but they look imbalanced to me).
Lounge suits which really were informal dress untill after WWI come in both DB and SB varieties, as do dinner jackets.
As the Frock coat died out, the sole surviving DB style is the lounge suit. It is less formal than an SB morning coat or stroller, and more formal than a SB lounge suit without waistcoat.
Not that that woudl help those who want to be correct at all times, but at least thsi is the historical development I can see.
Back in the 19th century, the most formal would have been court dress, which indeed then was mostly single breasted, but this really is a shape and cut that goes back to the 17th century.
A rang below would have been the tailcoat for evening and the frock coat for day dress. The former is DB, the latter mostly DB although SB variants exist.
I would place the Cutaway (today's morning dress) a notch below in formality, and it is technically SB (although DB variants do exist, but they look imbalanced to me).
Lounge suits which really were informal dress untill after WWI come in both DB and SB varieties, as do dinner jackets.
As the Frock coat died out, the sole surviving DB style is the lounge suit. It is less formal than an SB morning coat or stroller, and more formal than a SB lounge suit without waistcoat.
Not that that woudl help those who want to be correct at all times, but at least thsi is the historical development I can see.
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Guest
If we're talking about lounge suit, in todays social milieu , how is the DB vs. SB perceived?
For example, for a job interview, I presume one would reach for the SB.
For the boardroom, perhaps a DB.
For an elegant evening out (but not requiring dinner jacket), the DB would be a more formal choice, no?
For example, if I have 2 suits in the exact same cloth, say navy worsted, one in DB, one SB....which is the dressier?
The DB is the more formal, dressier choice today, isn't it?
For example, for a job interview, I presume one would reach for the SB.
For the boardroom, perhaps a DB.
For an elegant evening out (but not requiring dinner jacket), the DB would be a more formal choice, no?
For example, if I have 2 suits in the exact same cloth, say navy worsted, one in DB, one SB....which is the dressier?
The DB is the more formal, dressier choice today, isn't it?
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Guest
The DB is definitely a dressier choice these days. The only lounge suit that I think beats it is a SB peak lapel three piece suit.
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Guest
I think (or, rather, have been taught) that the SB 3-piece suit (with notch lapels) is more formal than any DB. The same principle applies to dinner suits: the SB shawl lapel coat is definitely more formal than the DB version.
In general, the simpler the lines, the more potentially formal the suit I think (potentially because it also depends on cloth, shirt and tie, shoes etc.).
Costi
In general, the simpler the lines, the more potentially formal the suit I think (potentially because it also depends on cloth, shirt and tie, shoes etc.).
Costi
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Guest
Alden once wrote that in Europe (espically London and London-inspired sartorial enclaves), the DB is considered less formal than the SB 3-piece, as the DB is held to be a way to ditch the vest in favor of less cloth and more comfort. In America, on the other hand, most men consider (to the extent that they think about these things at all) the DB to be the more formal choice.
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