Search found 436 matches

by Frederic Leighton
Thu Jul 23, 2015 10:19 pm
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Proper front button size for a DB dinner jacket
Replies: 4
Views: 805

Re: Proper front button size for a DB dinner jacket

In the UK, ligne 32 and ligne 36 are the standard for SB and DB jackets respectively, regardless of chest size.
by Frederic Leighton
Sat Jul 18, 2015 9:40 am
Forum: The Structure of Style
Topic: The perennial question of aesthetic decadence
Replies: 21
Views: 2128

Re: The perennial question of aesthetic decadence

Both modern western science and ancient ayurveda, at centuries of distance, have come to the same conclusion - the brain processes a fixed amount of information every second. Both believe that this number is in the region of 600. Six-hundred stimuli per second. The vast majority of these stimuli are...
by Frederic Leighton
Wed Jun 24, 2015 7:20 am
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: The Minimal Necktie Wardrobe
Replies: 97
Views: 7844

Re: The Minimal Necktie Wardrobe

davidhuh wrote:I can confirm that Federico is too much of an artist to follow orders, rules and rotations in a strict manner :D
:lol: Thank you, David. They used to say the same of Arnold Shoenberg, then one day he came up with dodecaphony and disappointed everyone :wink:
by Frederic Leighton
Tue Jun 23, 2015 9:26 pm
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: The Minimal Necktie Wardrobe
Replies: 97
Views: 7844

Re: The Minimal Necktie Wardrobe

[...] There is no challenge if you rotate your neckties in that fashion and then adjust the jackets, suits, etc. to match them. The overall results would not be much different that the other way around, only that you will have your necktie wardrobe dictating the order of the outfits (which may not ...
by Frederic Leighton
Tue Jun 23, 2015 10:17 am
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: The Minimal Necktie Wardrobe
Replies: 97
Views: 7844

Re: The Minimal Necktie Wardrobe

A due update, after benefitting of your kind and experienced advice on ties in genearal first, and on yellow ties more recently. Below the new acquisitions of the last 6 months, all bespoke from Drake's. I started this thread assuming that a total of 24, 18 ties and 6 bow-ties, could be a good numbe...
by Frederic Leighton
Tue Jun 23, 2015 8:14 am
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Summer Flannel
Replies: 17
Views: 2235

Re: Summer Flannel

Dear Andy, David, Melcombe and Hectorm, Thank you for the many thought-stimulating notes. I think it might be possible and useful to try and set a middle-path, by remembering that most of what can be said for flannel, to a certain extent is also valid for worsted. It's not only flannel to come out s...
by Frederic Leighton
Mon Jun 22, 2015 8:48 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Bespoke shoes from John Lobb
Replies: 33
Views: 8874

Re: Bespoke shoes from John Lobb

Wonderful, David! Congratulations!

And you captured very well the elegance of these shoes with your photos. Thank you for sharing. Loking forward to spotting them around London and be inspired! :D
by Frederic Leighton
Fri Jun 19, 2015 11:43 pm
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Summer Flannel
Replies: 17
Views: 2235

Re: Summer Flannel

Thank you, Luca, David and Aston. David, very interesting notes. I'm also wearing Mistral these days, without waistcoat and with temperatures of 24C (more when underground). I'm quite happy with the way it wears. Is the flannel you mention for use up to 16C the LL/Fox's one (500 grams)? Has anyone t...
by Frederic Leighton
Thu Jun 18, 2015 12:25 pm
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Summer Flannel
Replies: 17
Views: 2235

Summer Flannel

Flannel used to be the quintessential Summer (and sports) cloth, not only in London (with July and August averages of 23-15 C) but also in the US. No need to believe Apparel Arts; pictures of our heroes speak alone. I'm quite happy with 370-400gram flannel trousers all year round, warmest months inc...
by Frederic Leighton
Sat Jun 13, 2015 12:27 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Homburg or Coke/Bowler Hat
Replies: 92
Views: 12943

Re: Homburg or Coke/Bowler Hat

davidhuh wrote:
Frederic Leighton wrote: The shop opened in 1914 and is an institution in Milan.
Dear Federico,

this can only be capelleria Melegari, no? A little gem, indeed, with some dusty corners :D

Beautiful Homburg btw! I'd wish I could wear one of those..

Cheers, David
Thank you, David! Yes, Melegari!
by Frederic Leighton
Fri Jun 12, 2015 12:37 am
Forum: Elegant Living
Topic: Useful reading
Replies: 40
Views: 6893

Re: Useful reading

[...] deckle edges are used as a decoration to increase its appeal. What could be the equivalent of deckle on a bespoke garment? Ah! interesting question, Hectorm! Thinking better, this modern use of deckle edges reminded me of RTW more than bespoke garments, like those jackets with 4 buttons on th...
by Frederic Leighton
Fri Jun 12, 2015 12:32 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Homburg or Coke/Bowler Hat
Replies: 92
Views: 12943

Re: Homburg or Coke/Bowler Hat

May I ask where you commissioned your fine headpiece? I join with Luca, please share with us the source of your very fine hat! (And I agree that it suits you and you wear it well!) Thank you, Andy! This is funny... the hat comes from Luca's old home town :D Luca, you must have been there already, a...
by Frederic Leighton
Thu Jun 11, 2015 8:49 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Homburg or Coke/Bowler Hat
Replies: 92
Views: 12943

Re: Homburg or Coke/Bowler Hat

Dear Luis, Luca, Screaminmarlon, Hectorm and Couch, Thank you all for the kind words! Also, thank you, Luca, for joining in and sharing this photo of your outfit. Very charismatic! I know what you mean by "level-level": I used to wear vintage homburg hats and find it difficult to follow Michael's ad...
by Frederic Leighton
Wed Jun 10, 2015 1:48 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Homburg or Coke/Bowler Hat
Replies: 92
Views: 12943

Re: Homburg or Coke/Bowler Hat

Image
by Frederic Leighton
Sun Jun 07, 2015 8:21 am
Forum: Elegant Living
Topic: Useful reading
Replies: 40
Views: 6893

Re: Useful reading

Robert Alter: The Book of Psalms. A Translation with Commentary; W.W. Norton & Co., 2009. Fascinating introduction, especially the part on the poetry of Psalms and the challenges of preserving the rhythm of ancient Biblical Hebrew in the English translation. Beautiful edition with deckle edge.