The London Lounge

With deep sadness, Martin Greenfield has passed away at the age of 95. He founded Martin Greenfield Clothiers The New York Times ran a front page obituary today. https://www.nytimes.com/2024/03/20/fashion/martin-greenfield-dead.html There have been other obituaries, such as The Wall Street Journal. ...

alden wrote: ↑

Sat Feb 10, 2024 2:36 pm

Wearing a suit without a necktie is an act of submission.

Courage is elegant. Submission never is.

Bravo!

A suit without a tie looks unfinished. As if the wearer forgot something. You need something at the collar..

The universe of quality mens hat makers is diminished.

I would say that Optimo is one of its brightest stars.

Are you buying at the Chicago store, a trunk show, or remotely?

I see it as a good look. Right off the bat your use of a bow tie sets you apart. The stereotype of the bow tie wearer is that he is either a professor, old money, someone in the arts (e.g., gallery owner, curator, classical musician, publisher, editor, etc.), or an out and out eccentric. Therefore, ...

I have not found Dupioni silk to be either fragile or hot. In fact, it is lightweight and perfect as a summer suit.

The problem with Dupioni is that it comes from a limited number of merchants in a limited range of colors, such as white, tan, and navy.

Interesting. It is a positive sign that it is branching-out into bespoke. It shows that the bespoke market is somewhat robust. I bought a couple of Pink RTW shirts at least 10 years ago, and I was not impressed. It was definitely a mid-level shirt comparable to Brooks Bros. mid-level. Mediocre fabri...

Tobias Menzies looks quite good in the role, and his clothes are excellent.

I would skip the breast pocket.

On a couple of coats, they tended to sag or gape over time. exposing the seam underneath.
.

A friend has come into some vicuna, and he wants to make a single breasted overcoat. My friend is new to bespoke clothing, and he would like some guidance. Could our members post some pictures showing models single breasted overcoats worn by the greats of the past as well as regular people populatin...

. . . but the salesman admitted, more or less, that the bespoke business was on the point of collapse owing to their difficulties in finding decent tailors! When I corresponded with a member of the Knize family who has since died, he indicated that the New York City branch closed in the 1970's due ...

Of the four tailors shown: 1. Yosel Tiefenbrun (www.tiefenbrunnyc.com), "The Rabbi Tailor", was trained at Maurice Sedwell on Savile Row. I know someone who tried him and was happy with the suit. This customer is a long-time customer of one of the esteemed off-Savile Row houses. 2. Ercole. I know of...

* * * As I suspect Mark S might acknowledge, as a lawyer, the best clients are demanding clients - but ones who don't demand consistent perfection - because what they really want are flashes of genius, and they want it when it counts the most. * * * Flashes of genius are an additional charge to the...

* * * There are so many ups and downs, so many diverse rhythms and truly tragic issues to deal with in life. A person who knows how to live well, who possesses savoir vivre , knows when to object and when to go with the flow. If you make an International issue of everything, you will live poorly an...

The portrait above is by Everett Raymond Kinstler, the best portrait artist working now. http://everettraymondkinstler.com/wordpress/

Mr. Wolfe's shirts were by Alex Kabbaz.

Mayor Walker was the subject of a 1957 movie biography, Beau James, starring Bob Hope. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beau_James

It is quite good although it glosses-over the corruption that undid him.