The London Lounge

Interesting that the majority here seem to think that flapped breast is generally a mistake on anything except a coat meant for real sporting use, safari jackets or shirt jackets, or military uniform. Here is what Costi called "a "sporty" tweed jacket that only sees as much action as walking in a pa...

Interesting question, Costi. I think it comes from the idea that the more you add to a garment details which look like they're intended for use (e.g., holding things (pockets), closing up fabric (working buttons), opening fabric (action pleats, say), the more casual it makes the garment. Generally, ...

Thank you, david. Hopefully this thread was helpful. I'm planning to order one myself sooner or later. I'm debating whether to try it with an action back and a half-belt.

Concordia, I hope you're pleased with the results. Did you order a buttoning flap or non-buttoning? Patch pocket or welt?

Hello All: There is little discussion on the clothing fora of flapped breast pockets. This is perhaps unsurprising, since flapped breast pockets are very rare on today's civilian tailored undercoats, and also quite rare on civilian outercoats. But it does not change the fact that apart from the famo...

Interesting idea, radical. It sounds good to me. As to your question: I don't think there is any good reason that cran-necker lapels such as yachtie has on many of his undercoats aren't seen on outercoats.

Great idea, Michael. Sator has a picture of something similar from 1949 in post 12 of this thread: http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2458&view=findpost&p=24515 I like those sharp-point-collar coats. I don't know why so few bespoke customers order them for casual coats. They se...

It appears that Kings of Arms can wear the red coat. Here is Norroy and Ulster KofA in 1984 wearing it. Of course, things may have changed since then:


http://www.college-of-arms.gov.uk/Newsletter/008.htm

Great images, thanks! So in the "Official Court Dress" in the 1890 Cutter's Practical Guide plate in Sator's post 9 in the above C&T thread, the gent modeled on Joseph Chamberlain is wearing the blue full-dress coat, not the red one? I guess it could be blue and not red. I'm surprised that the sixth...

Hmm. So that Levee Dress uniform is the third-class "bellboy's combination suit"? The coat is definitely less dressy than the full-dress coat. So it seems that when Windsor Uniform is worn at all these days, it's the blue 1912 Full-Dress coat with the 1912 Levee-Dress trousers. Was the red full-dres...

Interesting. I take it they're talking about Official Court Dress ca. 1900, as here http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=195&view=findpost&p=1673 That's Full Dress, which I understand nobody (?) now wears. Does anybody in Canada now wear the Informal Dress version, with blue trou...

Does anyone have any sources for 12 oz (or more) yellowish cream or light yellow gabardine, barathea, serge, plain weave, hopsack, or other smooth city-suiting-type woollens for dress trousers? Something like: http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2011/04/man-in-style-installment-vi.html Scabal has 13...

Dugdale's New Fine Worsted bunch is open weave wool, 9 oz.

Dugdale/Fisher also have a 70 wool/30 mohair blend that wears cool (8 oz).

After that, the obvious online buy is Minnis Fresco (go to hfwltd.com)

P. S. You might find this interesting. A back view of a New York Walking Coat (2nd from left), ca. 1866. Note that it appears not to have a waist seam, though it does have side bodies. The short ("D'Orsay") morning coat (far left) and the "French Sack-coat" (4th from left) are also interesting. From...

Interesting. I've been thinking along the same lines myself. A body coat just longer than lounge length, so that it hits definitely below the seat in back, with moderately cut away fronts, like a bolder version of Neapolitan open quarters. Side bodies and panelling in back. Rather like the short mor...

P. S. There's a pattern for an (I think cut-away) waisted lounge-length coat in the Sator thread I linked.