Search found 124 matches

by marburyvmadison
Wed May 22, 2013 9:50 am
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Molloy & Sons' Donegal Tweed - 545g/m
Replies: 69
Views: 5950

Re: Molloy & Sons' Donegal Tweed - 545g/m

I'd have though that tweed should be, at least, half lined. Well, unless you can bear the scratchiness of it!
by marburyvmadison
Fri May 10, 2013 9:25 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Hypothetical
Replies: 12
Views: 1131

Re: Hypothetical

Please do post pictures. I'm actually rather curious how a MTM suit from a respectable tailor will look like.

I ever only used a MTM service once back in university, and given that I had requested for a rather fashionable cut, I'm afraid it isn't a good benchmark for the skill of the tailor.
by marburyvmadison
Fri May 10, 2013 5:20 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Hypothetical
Replies: 12
Views: 1131

Re: Hypothetical

Here's why I'm a little skeptical about why solely 'altering down' from a larger block size is a sufficient reason to distinguish MTM and bespoke: In an excerpt of the article below, Mahon talks about how certain bespoke tailors also work with block patterns, manipulations, and revise it downwards t...
by marburyvmadison
Fri May 10, 2013 3:03 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Hypothetical
Replies: 12
Views: 1131

Re: Hypothetical

It suddenly struck me after I read David's reply and I think other differences would be that in most cases, on a MTM garment, you typically won't find the handwork that usually also sets a bespoke garment apart from the MTM. Things like hand padded lapels and canvass etc that are crucial to imbuing ...
by marburyvmadison
Thu May 09, 2013 7:39 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Hypothetical
Replies: 12
Views: 1131

Re: Hypothetical

That'd, indeed, be interesting to know -- whether a block pattern can be cut down to fit one's size appropriately. After all, I'm guessing that with MTM, one also has a couple of fittings.
by marburyvmadison
Sun Apr 28, 2013 6:21 am
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Thinking of trying Japanese...
Replies: 3
Views: 1484

Re: Thinking of trying Japanese...

I have heard from acquaintances that the very best Japanese tailors are fastidious in their fittings, their workmanship, faultless, and the suit, on a technical note, far surpass that of Italian tailors and suits produced on the Row. I have also heard they are within the price range -- or slightly p...
by marburyvmadison
Sun Apr 28, 2013 6:15 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Tweed Odd Jacket Cloth & Details
Replies: 57
Views: 6027

Re: Tweed Odd Jacket Cloth & Details

I would not ask the tailor to remake the coat just because he added an additional button on the cuffs, but would if he added a fourth button on the front. I think that whether you ask for a re-make -- because you detest the ticket pocket -- depends on your r/s with the tailor (and the prospects of n...
by marburyvmadison
Mon Mar 25, 2013 12:20 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: I wonder about SR quality
Replies: 64
Views: 7932

Re: I wonder about SR quality

Like has been mentioned by a couple of posters -- I've found that the smaller houses that are off-row, but employ ex-SR cutters, and where the coats are put together by tailors within a certain radius of the Row to be considered a Row-made garment, to be more fastidious, and offer a better product. ...
by marburyvmadison
Thu Mar 07, 2013 6:31 pm
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: The one-button look
Replies: 9
Views: 873

Re: The one-button look

I think a one button coat tends to help visually lengthen a shorter man's torso, instead of truncating him into sections the way a three button does. I found that to be my experience since I'm 5'3. Thus I wear them almost exclusively and not because it's uncommon. This below is Patrick Murphy, head ...
by marburyvmadison
Mon Feb 25, 2013 12:00 pm
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: two queries for Dinner Jackets: silk and weight
Replies: 11
Views: 850

Re: two queries for Dinner Jackets: silk and weight

Right. Unvented it is, unless my tailor advised otherwise though I'd doubt that, since you've assuaged my doubts about being able to sit comfortably. I hope this doesn't mean a generous waist.
by marburyvmadison
Mon Feb 25, 2013 10:01 am
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: two queries for Dinner Jackets: silk and weight
Replies: 11
Views: 850

Re: two queries for Dinner Jackets: silk and weight

I would think that it'd be easier to sit when one wears a SB DJ since you can unbutton it (as there's a waistcoat). Not the same for a DB!
by marburyvmadison
Sun Feb 24, 2013 12:54 pm
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: two queries for Dinner Jackets: silk and weight
Replies: 11
Views: 850

Re: two queries for Dinner Jackets: silk and weight

I've always thought that covered buttons are the sole and only choice, but recently read somewhere that uncovered buttons were used back then -- see picture. Appropriate or not? Since we're on the picture, is the belly of this collar tasteful and well-done? Dear MVM, the uncovered buttons (plus the...
by marburyvmadison
Sat Feb 23, 2013 10:36 pm
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: two queries for Dinner Jackets: silk and weight
Replies: 11
Views: 850

Re: two queries for Dinner Jackets: silk and weight

To piggy back off on this, is there a consensus as to whether side vents are tasteful for a DB DJ? Am aware it's not traditional, but will it be considered a faux pas ? Should the besom pockets be jetted with grosgrain, or self-fabric? I've always thought that covered buttons are the sole and only c...
by marburyvmadison
Wed Feb 13, 2013 8:12 am
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Donegal suit cloth
Replies: 14
Views: 2381

Re: Donegal suit cloth

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by marburyvmadison
Mon Feb 04, 2013 5:39 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: The Duke before the drape.
Replies: 31
Views: 4806

Re: The Duke before the drape.

The original idea of drape was very subtle with just a bit more "chest emphasis" a wee bit more shoulder and a trim sleeve. A softer more fluent over all look.. Much of the drape effect came from the construction of the canvas. Soft and supple. Later drapes became more voluminous and "drapey" and i...