Search found 22 matches

by a tailor
Fri Feb 20, 2009 4:01 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Assistance please n correcting a fit issue
Replies: 8
Views: 1692

usually side vents that gap do so because of either of two things. 1. the back is too long. 2. the hip is too tight. that strap is a poor solution for that gaping. this is separate from the front problem. the front shoulder is likely too crooked. the solution is to shift the front shoulder outward.
by a tailor
Thu Feb 19, 2009 4:26 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Fullness
Replies: 25
Views: 8371

to help understand. go to ask andy, go on search, ask for cutting a low shoulder. scroll down to that title.
by a tailor
Fri Jan 30, 2009 4:33 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Fullness
Replies: 25
Views: 8371

i do think that schneidergott is right. its not the jacket its your shoulder. that right is lower, when you are fresh and feeling strong you stand straight. when you are tired that right shoulder sags. i do the same when i am fresh i stand erect. when i am tired i am stooped. i have two different po...
by a tailor
Sat Jan 10, 2009 4:49 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Cutters, tailors, coatmakers, candlestick makers and bakers.
Replies: 7
Views: 1940

there is no law to consult concerning titles in the tailoring industry. if you deal with a tailor working by himself. he is the designer-pattern maker-fitter-cutter- tryon maker-pant maker-vest maker-the bushel man-the sales man-the manager-he collects the money-and from that pays the bills. if he i...
by a tailor
Wed Dec 10, 2008 5:09 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Posture - exercise and tailoring?
Replies: 12
Views: 3339

yea, you have to be firm with them.
by a tailor
Wed Dec 10, 2008 5:04 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Different type of suit jacket lapels
Replies: 14
Views: 3459

shows you that an infinite number of shapes are possible.
no one has an exclusive title to a lapel shape.
by a tailor
Wed Dec 10, 2008 1:47 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: What do you think of this jacket?
Replies: 9
Views: 3192

you have a nice smile but you should really have some dental work done.
by a tailor
Wed Dec 10, 2008 1:38 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Posture - exercise and tailoring?
Replies: 12
Views: 3339

just relax and stand naturally. the tailors first words when measuring. then the customer looks down and around,shifts his stance.to see whats going on. then the first basted fitting, and he snaps to attention in front of the mirror like a soldier instead of slouching his normal. is it any wonder th...
by a tailor
Wed Dec 10, 2008 1:23 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Different type of suit jacket lapels
Replies: 14
Views: 3459

the sport coat is just a horizontal peak with round points.
the suit coat is a usual horizontal peak.
there many different interpretations of both notch and peak lapels.
some tailors try to attach their name to one version for publicity purposes.
by a tailor
Sun Nov 30, 2008 9:11 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Different type of suit jacket lapels
Replies: 14
Views: 3459

there are dozens of variations of the two basic notch and peak lapels.
by a tailor
Tue Nov 18, 2008 4:45 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: New Jantzen Shirt--Comments Please
Replies: 13
Views: 3535

on your next order. the shoulders should be narrower 1" on each side. the waist smaller about 2" each side. the cuffs tighter enough to keep from dropping past the base of the thumb. also you have a right low shoulder.
by a tailor
Mon Nov 17, 2008 9:42 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: A tailor's work!
Replies: 4
Views: 3610

thank you for the interesting pictures. is that from a students text book?
may i also ask. is it customary in germany only, to sew through the edge of the tape when sewing the facing on the edge? or is this customary in all of europe.

thank you again.
by a tailor
Sun Jul 20, 2008 8:01 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Breaking in suits?
Replies: 12
Views: 3434

it takes wearing to break in anything suit, shoes etc.
anything new feels new and different.
or could it be a bit tighter than the rest of your suits?
by a tailor
Sat May 24, 2008 3:21 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: A young tailor takes up the scissors
Replies: 12
Views: 4676

great tailoring. beautiful pattern matching.
by a tailor
Sun May 04, 2008 8:59 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: White flannels?
Replies: 14
Views: 5187

go with tropicals, flannel is too warm for summer.