Search found 21 matches

by Samuel
Thu Apr 25, 2024 3:23 pm
Forum: LL Cloth Club Subscriptions
Topic: Special: Windsor 2 Tweed
Replies: 29
Views: 15222

Re: Special: Windsor 2 Tweed

Is Babbo a possibility for the Windsor 2 ?
by Samuel
Mon Jul 09, 2018 8:00 pm
Forum: The Structure of Style
Topic: No Darts
Replies: 2
Views: 1279

No Darts

Frank Shattuck says : "No front dart...Very old school. Very turn of the century."

The fogey within has been nudging me toward the softer construction, including very natural shoulder and no darts. My tailor happily obliges. Anybody else favoring this "turn of the century" styling?
by Samuel
Sat Feb 09, 2013 8:41 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: First bespoke: What fabric for navy blazer?
Replies: 43
Views: 5441

Re: First bespoke: What fabric for navy blazer?

A couple of other W. Bill options. One is a lambswool plain weave/hopsack. A true navy. 13 oz. I forget the cloth number but I can get it. The other is #30041, a true navy hopsack found in the Lamlana book. 320g. Merino and Angora, with a wee but of cashmere. A tad luxe for some of the hard finish w...
by Samuel
Sat Feb 09, 2013 8:12 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: First bespoke: What fabric for navy blazer?
Replies: 43
Views: 5441

Re: First bespoke: What fabric for navy blazer?

Lovat Mills-- a blue hopsack. Probably Shetland.

Not navy. More like a French blue. Mottled, varied yarns.

#9261.
by Samuel
Wed Feb 06, 2013 1:35 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: First bespoke: What fabric for navy blazer?
Replies: 43
Views: 5441

Re: First bespoke: What fabric for navy blazer?

If I had gone the hopsack suiting-for-a-blazer route, the Lesser 29748 was my favorite. 13 oz. Dark navy but not midnight.
by Samuel
Wed Feb 06, 2013 1:25 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: First bespoke: What fabric for navy blazer?
Replies: 43
Views: 5441

Re: First bespoke: What fabric for navy blazer?

I'd still love to see an LLCC hopsack coating cloth in true Navy!
by Samuel
Wed Feb 06, 2013 1:21 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: First bespoke: What fabric for navy blazer?
Replies: 43
Views: 5441

Re: First bespoke: What fabric for navy blazer?

Ray at W. Bill sent the perfect summer weight hopsack. I'll find the cloth number and post later today. I already have weight hopsack blazer, so the Smith options were not appealing. I think I am close to finding what I have in mind--the Minnis hopsack coating cloth in Navy. # 2009 in their English ...
by Samuel
Wed Feb 06, 2013 5:50 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: First bespoke: What fabric for navy blazer?
Replies: 43
Views: 5441

Re: First bespoke: What fabric for navy blazer?

Liquidus, the h&S hopsack is an English micro hopsack--13 oz., best I recall. Suitable for suiting because the weave is subtle. It's one of the gems in all of their more recent books. I posted a while back about the many Smith hopsack options. All came up a bit short for me. Good cloth, but not the ...
by Samuel
Wed Sep 26, 2012 8:56 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Smith Woollens Abacus
Replies: 0
Views: 518

Smith Woollens Abacus

This cloth was recommended to me recently. A 10 oz. plain weave.

Any feedback would be appreciated.
by Samuel
Sun Jul 22, 2012 8:17 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Stitching
Replies: 3
Views: 825

Re: Stitching

Thanks for the feedback. Yes, I agree. I was thinking something around 7/16".

I have a heavier herringbone tweed in mind, as well as a heavy navy flannel (blazer), complete with patch pockets.
by Samuel
Thu Jul 19, 2012 1:00 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Stitching
Replies: 3
Views: 825

Stitching

Sport jacket and blazer top stitching--lapels and patch pockets. I know 1/4" is typical. Has anyone tried 1/2" stitching? Or something in between?
by Samuel
Tue Jul 17, 2012 12:41 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Rangoon
Replies: 1
Views: 636

Rangoon

How old is the old (R.I.P.) Rangoon panama cloth? Recently I came across a bit of cloth and I am wondering if some of what I now have is the old Rangoon. Was Rangoon being woven as far back as the 60s?
by Samuel
Mon Mar 05, 2012 5:10 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Panama Melange
Replies: 3
Views: 917

Re: Panama Melange

Not easy to describe. One knows it when one sees it. There are frescos that feature a mélange look. Shades of white and grey woven into the cloth, alongside the primary (gray, navy, etc.) color. The Rangoon charcoal melange is an example, as is an old Gilt Edge gray. So many of the better known pana...
by Samuel
Sun Mar 04, 2012 8:02 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Panama Melange
Replies: 3
Views: 917

Panama Melange

The old Minnis Rangoon book comes to mind. There was a charcoal melange. A great mixture of colors that resulted in a, well, mélange effect. Or what some might call "heathered." The old Gilt Edge book featured a medium grey melange, and the Lesser SFT book included an RAF Blue mélange. Any other sou...
by Samuel
Mon Jan 02, 2012 2:23 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Hopsack options
Replies: 18
Views: 3820

Re: Hopsack options

Am I correct that Lovat offers a house hopsack cloth?