Search found 44 matches

by Kayak81
Mon Nov 27, 2017 1:59 pm
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Iron Question
Replies: 18
Views: 3367

Iron Question

Both high-end professional and cheap consumer irons have a limited number of steam holes at the tip followed by a solid surface at the back. This makes sense, as my understanding is that steam first relaxes the fibers and then the heat of the iron takes out the wrinkles and dries the fabric. What co...
by Kayak81
Mon Dec 26, 2016 9:28 pm
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Snow & Slush
Replies: 19
Views: 1713

Re: Snow & Slush

This is a topic I've been thinking about this topic for a few years now. G&G made up a pair of ankle boots for me, patterned after an LL boot that Michael designed several years ago. It has taken a while, as for some reason my shoe last didn't fit well in a boot, and they had to redo it entirely. In...
by Kayak81
Sat Feb 06, 2016 2:48 am
Forum: The Structure of Style
Topic: The role of bespoke in a relaxed environment
Replies: 46
Views: 4330

Re: The role of bespoke in a relaxed environment

I'm curious about those who wear, or soon will be wearing, non-business suits for their everyday activities. Do you live in a city, or the suburbs? I'm in an atypical situation of being 5-10 years from retirement, but also living in a suburban/semi-rural area, working from home, and caring for a 5 y...
by Kayak81
Sat May 30, 2015 1:15 pm
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Care of Patent Leather Shoes?
Replies: 4
Views: 655

Re: Care of Patent Leather Shoes?

I have a 25 yo pair of Allen Edmonds patent leather dress shoes. At the time I bought them, the salesman told me to use window cleaner if I ever needed to clean them. So far, I've never needed anything more than a damp cloth.
by Kayak81
Thu Nov 06, 2014 5:16 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Alterations tailor NYC
Replies: 5
Views: 1016

Re: Alterations tailor NYC

Paul Winston ( son of Chipp founder Harry Winston ) shares space with an alterations tailor in the lobby of the building at 28 W 44th St. I'm not sure if he's still making clothes, but in the past Paul used to have the alterations tailor do some of the work that his own tailor couldn't get to. +1 t...
by Kayak81
Thu Nov 06, 2014 3:26 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Alterations tailor NYC
Replies: 5
Views: 1016

Re: Alterations tailor NYC

Paul Winston (son of Chipp founder Harry Winston) shares space with an alterations tailor in the lobby of the building at 28 W 44th St. I'm not sure if he's still making clothes, but in the past Paul used to have the alterations tailor do some of the work that his own tailor couldn't get to. I haven...
by Kayak81
Mon Nov 03, 2014 10:02 pm
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Where is the best place to find cloth in New York?
Replies: 8
Views: 916

Re: Where is the best place to find cloth in New York?

You might want to contact Isles Textile Group in Farmingdale. They're importers who sell most of the standard British cloths to tailors in the U.S. Although they sell mostly to tailors, they will sell to individuals who aren't having a suit made by one of their clients. You have to know the fabric t...
by Kayak81
Thu Oct 30, 2014 1:24 am
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: What does your closet look like?
Replies: 42
Views: 3706

Re: What does your closet look like?

Gentlemen, for LL members, the more appropriate question may be "What does your cloth trunk look like?". It is impossible to make up all the LL beauties offered and everything I buy, even when using several tailors. So, having a good moth free storage space for later days is key. My nephews will pr...
by Kayak81
Fri Oct 24, 2014 8:43 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: The cost, margin and value of (British) bespoke
Replies: 20
Views: 2531

Re: The cost, margin and value of (British) bespoke

Here's a different perspective on the economics of making a bespoke suit: http://www.nytimes.com/2012/09/09/magaz ... d=all&_r=0.
by Kayak81
Wed Sep 24, 2014 7:27 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Des Merrion
Replies: 4
Views: 1022

Re: Des Merrion

I spoke with Des several times a few years back and liked him very much. I thought his prices were very reasonable and he does all of the work himself. If I recall correctly, he doesn't like drape, but will otherwise make up a suit in whatever style the customer wants. He's not afraid to give advice...
by Kayak81
Thu Jul 10, 2014 5:54 pm
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Half lining on summer coat
Replies: 6
Views: 688

Half lining on summer coat

I just handed a length of Piuma off to Edwin to have a summer suit made and asked to have the coat half-lined. Edwin said that he'd be happy to make it with a half-lining (and indeed many of his customers insist on it), but he went on to say that he would recommend against it. The reason for this re...
by Kayak81
Thu Jun 19, 2014 4:10 pm
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Tweed coats - collar lining
Replies: 9
Views: 556

Re: Tweed coats - collar lining

I had had the collar on my Barleycorn Tweed (made by Molloy and even heavier than their standard cloths) self-lined and I don't see any problem with it at all. I also had the lapels made slightly bigger than normal with a button underneath so the collar can be raised, and the lapels closed and butto...
by Kayak81
Tue Jun 10, 2014 3:02 am
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Rubber Sole Recommendations
Replies: 22
Views: 1608

Re: Rubber Sole Recommendations

Is this the Cleverley reindeer? Amazing, stuff that is. I'm getting them from G&G. Tony said he gets the reindeer from a tannery in Cornwall. He also suggested a bellows tongue to help keep water out. I think a "bellows tongue" -adequate for heavier boots or hiking shoes- is a bit of an overkill fo...
by Kayak81
Mon Jun 09, 2014 3:03 pm
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Rubber Sole Recommendations
Replies: 22
Views: 1608

Re: Rubber Sole Recommendations

Thanks everyone for your input. I had been unaware that Dainite also made the Medway and Ridgeway soles. Those might do the trick. Would the Ridgeway offer more traction than the Medway? I haven't yet broached the subject of Vibram soles with my shoemaker. I was a bit surprised though, that he didn'...
by Kayak81
Fri Jun 06, 2014 12:06 am
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Rubber Sole Recommendations
Replies: 22
Views: 1608

Re: Rubber Sole Recommendations

Dear Hectorm, Concordia & David, Thanks for the advice. The main purpose of these boots would be for outdoor walking, particularly when travelling, and when inclement weather is a strong possibility. They’ll be worn with chinos or corduroys most of the time and only occasionally with a suit. For exa...