Search found 22 matches

by gcg
Mon Mar 07, 2022 11:53 am
Forum: The Structure of Style
Topic: Evening Tailcoat - How long is too long
Replies: 3
Views: 1284

Re: Evening Tailcoat - How long is too long

Len Logsdail will be your best source, but until then, I believe that tails should go to the break behind your knee. Presumably, tails can be shortened, much as any other kind of hem can be raised. Thanks for the reply, yes this is the current recommended length, and has been for the past half cent...
by gcg
Mon Mar 07, 2022 9:11 am
Forum: The Structure of Style
Topic: Evening Tailcoat - How long is too long
Replies: 3
Views: 1284

Evening Tailcoat - How long is too long

I have been having bespoke suits made now for 15 years and have almost a full range of formalities, mostly lounge suits, sports coats, but also morning tails and 'stroller' (for the masons), and DJ, I occasionally attend white tie events and have been wearing an ex-hire suit I picked up at universit...
by gcg
Tue Sep 08, 2015 8:58 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Escorial
Replies: 3
Views: 632

Escorial

I have picked up 4m of dark blue Escorial by Reid and Taylor at a tailors closing down/ retirement sell off. It is very beautiful fabric, though my tailor has never heard of it and feels it is too soft/ stretchy to use for a full suit as it would not hold its shape or keep a crease in the trouser, m...
by gcg
Tue Mar 10, 2015 4:13 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Homburg or Coke/Bowler Hat
Replies: 92
Views: 12236

Re: Homburg or Coke/Bowler Hat

I still find the Trilbys (medium brim, medium crown) much easier to wear on the daily winter walking commutes than the Fedoras. Of course, you´ll have to try them on and see what you like and where your level of comfort stands. A visit to, for example, Bates on Jermyn St. could be the right start. ...
by gcg
Tue Feb 24, 2015 4:41 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Homburg or Coke/Bowler Hat
Replies: 92
Views: 12236

Re: Homburg or Coke/Bowler Hat

I have worn Homburgs since my mid twenties (I am now i my early 30s) as I have always liked and suited hats, but have always disliked the casual hats such as the Trilby's and Fedoras. The only thing one had to remember is to buy the correct size/ shape/ brim size etc for your face. The top shops hav...
by gcg
Tue Feb 24, 2015 4:26 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Evening Tails (White Tie)
Replies: 23
Views: 2943

Re: Evening Tails (White Tie)

Thanks for the replies. My tailor does do a good number of tails, he also did my morning coat that I was very happy with. His specialty is actually hunt wear, as he is in the middle of Derbyshire. He also does the tails for the various Master Cutler events in Sheffield and also Freemasonry (which in...
by gcg
Mon Feb 23, 2015 8:36 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Evening Tails (White Tie)
Replies: 23
Views: 2943

Evening Tails (White Tie)

I shall be commissioning some soon, and had a few questions about particular aspects. My current tails are old off the peg: 1. The shoulder: antique tails have a shoulder seam that rather than going straight at the apex of the shoulder (as all modern coats/ tails do), curves backwards onto the back....
by gcg
Sat Nov 08, 2014 11:44 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: watermarked silk/moire facing
Replies: 9
Views: 1474

watermarked silk/moire facing

A while ago I saw a dinner jacket with watermarked silk/ moire facings on the lapels, I think they were antique, a chap's father's from pre-war. I quite like the idea of this, but I cannot find any cloth merchant who sells it, most say they stopped 20 years ago. Does anybody here know of where I cou...
by gcg
Thu May 30, 2013 9:01 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Casual, not denim
Replies: 20
Views: 1951

Update

I've just ordered a pair of mid to dark grey flannels (Hunt and Winterbotham 15oz), flat fronted, proper waist height, from my tailor. I usually have pleats for my suit trousers by thought flat was better for casual trousers. On another note, I've just ordered my first DB suit. (I've always had SB w...
by gcg
Mon May 20, 2013 11:11 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Casual, not denim
Replies: 20
Views: 1951

Re: Casual, not denim

I find it somewhat incongruent that for a night out in the evening, one's wife will make a big effort and makes up in a dress, but men are left with jeans. The equivalent of your wife´s wearing an evening dress is your wearing a suit. I agree with Screaminmarlon and I like the idea of a rather info...
by gcg
Mon May 20, 2013 2:09 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Casual, not denim
Replies: 20
Views: 1951

Casual, not denim

Dear All, I am 31 and quite style conscious with both formal and casual and have up to now worn nice jeans with a blazer/ jacket. I am though getting to dislike denim and it seems for the young man nowadays there are few alternatives. I find it somewhat incongruent that for a night out in the evenin...
by gcg
Tue Nov 13, 2012 12:48 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: quilting in morning suits
Replies: 7
Views: 1006

quilting in morning suits

Very old morning suits, and frock coats, I have seen, have quilting on the inside.

The position does not look like it was just for warmth, but it is as though it gives some shape holding?

Does any tailor style use this method or is it archaic?
by gcg
Tue Nov 13, 2012 12:44 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Skyfall
Replies: 43
Views: 3835

Re: Skyfall

The James Bond of years back was a man of resplendent taste. Breakfast was his favorite meal, he wore a bespoke Chesterfield, and only the woman who kissed him could sense the Floris 89. Today, James travels in a track suit and sneakers. He has no time for breakfast and owns no overcoat. He shops a...
by gcg
Fri Nov 02, 2012 9:05 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Frock Coats today?
Replies: 31
Views: 12692

Re: Frock Coats today?

My tailor in Derbyshire does lots of body coats, usually morning, hunt, evening tails, military bum freezers. He says her has done frocks in the past, but not with silk facings.

He is also very reasonably priced.
by gcg
Sun May 06, 2012 3:30 pm
Forum: Elegant Living
Topic: This is a pipe smoking zone
Replies: 95
Views: 23028

French Pipes

there are some very good french pipes, I smoke butx choquin pipes, which I bought in france and am throroughly happy with.

My Tobacco of choice at the moment are Dunhills.