Search found 301 matches

by Melcombe
Fri Mar 15, 2024 10:44 am
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: when to wear a suit?
Replies: 16
Views: 8362

Re: when to wear a suit?

Wearing a suit without a necktie is an act of submission. Courage is elegant. Submission never is. Bravo! A suit without a tie looks unfinished. As if the wearer forgot something. You need something at the collar.. Very true. In London among many professionals, especially in finance, a (tight) plai...
by Melcombe
Sat Mar 09, 2024 7:29 pm
Forum: Elegant Living
Topic: North of Italy: Milan, Turin, Genoa
Replies: 10
Views: 3558

Re: North of Italy: Milan, Turin, Genoa

I know I'm sounding a little bit wimpy, but can you drop a couple of names? Not best coffee / food / price-quality ratio, no -- just a few good places for "sitting outside ... watching the Torinese world go by." The main pedestrianised retail street is via Giuseppe Garibaldi. The caffes are aimed a...
by Melcombe
Fri Mar 01, 2024 12:45 am
Forum: Elegant Living
Topic: North of Italy: Milan, Turin, Genoa
Replies: 10
Views: 3558

Re: North of Italy: Milan, Turin, Genoa

Im presently doing some work with a business based in Turin / Torino – and have been lucky to have an excuse to visit there a few times over the last 3 years. One of the best things about Turin is that it is not on the tourist trail. It’s a true working city – the centre of the Italian motor industr...
by Melcombe
Fri Jan 19, 2024 5:09 pm
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Winter footwear in a formal context
Replies: 11
Views: 4881

Re: Winter footwear in a formal context

I suppose it depends on the severity of the weather but I find these work quite well as a sturdy outdoor shoe that is acceptable in a more formal setting - https://trickers.com/collections/country-shoes/products/ilkley-country-shoe-black-scotch-grain Tricker's is definitely the place for this sort ...
by Melcombe
Mon Feb 13, 2023 3:43 pm
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Suitcase
Replies: 8
Views: 2744

Re: Suitcase

I have accumulated several GT cases down the years and like them very much. They are very practical, the fibreboard being very light yet tough - and a fraction of the weight of a leather equivalent. One word of warning however, even the very best cases won't stand up to the mistreatment that the wor...
by Melcombe
Sat Dec 24, 2022 5:11 pm
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: The waistcoat conundrum.
Replies: 10
Views: 3753

Re: The waistcoat conundrum.

My wife thinks I look far more elegant - and slimmer - when I wear a 3 piece suit. Funny, but I thought I was both those things anyway?????? You absolutely are - the waistcoat simply draws attention to that reality.. :wink: With the benefit of the sage advice given above, I have gone for the 4-piec...
by Melcombe
Thu Dec 15, 2022 2:59 pm
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: The waistcoat conundrum.
Replies: 10
Views: 3753

The waistcoat conundrum.

Not a previously unpublished book by Robert Ludlum, but a new project for 2023 that involves some cloth acquired a while ago & overlooked for too long - there's 7.3m of it.. It's a 9oz pinstripe. Very boringly, I always take the same approach - SB jacket and 2 pairs of trousers which will normally u...
by Melcombe
Wed Oct 26, 2022 11:47 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Morning Suit - advice sought please
Replies: 16
Views: 6977

Re: Morning Suit - advice sought please

I would avoid anything other than black for the tailcoat. The material for mine is a very narrow herringbone (you'd need to look closely to notice). The classic morning dress trouser material is grey & black stripe - long rise as mentioned and a black or grey waistcoat. Black with 'slips' (as worn b...
by Melcombe
Wed Jul 06, 2022 12:33 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Blazer style choices
Replies: 19
Views: 9254

Re: Blazer style choices

May I ask a closely related question, ? (without wanting to hijack the thread...) Is a blazer traditionally cut to a different shape from a suit jacket of similar fabric/ weight? Or would a tailor default to the same jacket pattern.? I suppose the suspicion that it might not be the same as a suit ja...
by Melcombe
Fri Jul 01, 2022 2:57 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Tailor your encounters
Replies: 2
Views: 2299

Re: Tailor your encounters

I’d echo that sentiment. In a world where some people look to gain advantage by driving a wedge between others and whipping up hatred as a means of gaining power and influence - the best counter-strategy is surely kindness and decency? True leadership in all areas of life is founded on selflessness ...
by Melcombe
Tue Feb 22, 2022 10:59 am
Forum: Great Photos
Topic: Benjamin Disraeli
Replies: 0
Views: 3861

Benjamin Disraeli

History today has tweeted a 1999 article (then 150 year anniversary of the event) concerning one of the UK's foremost political figures of the 19th Century - Benjamin Disraeli. https://www.historytoday.com/archive/disraeli-and-conservative-leadership His reputation as a snappy dresser was, in those ...
by Melcombe
Wed Jan 19, 2022 11:21 pm
Forum: The Structure of Style
Topic: A cloth-hunter’s cautionary tale
Replies: 1
Views: 1442

A cloth-hunter’s cautionary tale

Some years ago (ok, make that, over a decade ago) I convinced myself that I needed a not-quite-formal overcoat and settled on the idea of an overcheck tweed made up as a covert coat. In a Dugdales book there was a John G Hardy tweed that appealed fine green check mix with an orange overcheck. Choice...
by Melcombe
Mon Nov 22, 2021 12:10 pm
Forum: The Structure of Style
Topic: Polo Coat question
Replies: 26
Views: 6835

Re: Polo Coat question

Interestingly, the fine folks at The Anthology yesterday introduced a version of their Simon Crompton collaboration polo coat in a grey and white herringbone Donegal. The change of cloth changes the coat utterly, and to my eye makes the coat much less attractive and almost unrecognizable as a polo ...
by Melcombe
Tue Nov 02, 2021 11:28 pm
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Cloth finish.
Replies: 2
Views: 1796

Re: Cloth finish.

This Woolmark Company youtube presentation is worth viewing in its entirety, but the section on wool cloth finishing is relevant to your request [youtube]https://youtu.be/gefa6emNxKA?t=1230[/youtube] WT Johnson services many weavers from all over Britain as a finisher, and they work closely with th...
by Melcombe
Tue Nov 02, 2021 11:30 am
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Cloth finish.
Replies: 2
Views: 1796

Cloth finish.

Could any learnèd volunteers possibly share with me their knowledge of cloth finishes - and what the variously bandied-about terms actually mean? What are the processes available for worsteds? What are they called and how do they affect durability and performance? For example, "milled" I believe I u...