Search found 130 matches

by dempsy444
Fri Apr 04, 2014 11:55 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Just how honest are London tailors
Replies: 104
Views: 11994

Re: Just how honest are London tailors

Dr T wrote:Dempsey 444 - is that the Hong Kong shop for your shirts - im flying out tomorrow and would like to visit.
Yes, same house. I have commissioned thru their New York and LA locations
But all the work is done in China.
by dempsy444
Sat Mar 29, 2014 11:53 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Poor Fit on Bespoke Coat: A Familiar Story?
Replies: 7
Views: 970

Re: Poor Fit on Bespoke Coat: A Familiar Story?

The first bespoke really is a journey. You learn as much about yourself as you do the tailor or the craft. When you see things through like you did, you can look back on the product created and have something you really like along with a rich story that gives the garment even more humanity. In your ...
by dempsy444
Sat Mar 29, 2014 11:18 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Just how honest are London tailors
Replies: 104
Views: 11994

Re: Just how honest are London tailors

regarding China - I think it is less important that something is made in China vs. Italy or London and more important how high the final quality is. In general I think London and Italy have highest population of the best tailors, but i would rather have an expert tailor in China than a average tailo...
by dempsy444
Sat Mar 29, 2014 11:04 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Just how honest are London tailors
Replies: 104
Views: 11994

Re: Just how honest are London tailors

My experience is the tailors are pretty transparent about anything that is not sewn in the UK and those suits contain a lower price point. In fact a lot of the firms that have some bespoke made entirely in the UK and other lines that are cut in the UK and sewn in China proactively explain the differ...
by dempsy444
Mon Sep 30, 2013 3:37 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Double Breasted Commission
Replies: 9
Views: 1367

Re: Double Breasted Commission

Thank you all for the very helpful input. Michael, I look forward to seeing the LL Fox Flannel in person and like your idea of trying a lighter structure with the heavier cloth. I have seen some do a DB with A&S or one of its descendant tailors this way and it appears to drape very nicely. To your p...
by dempsy444
Wed Sep 25, 2013 10:34 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Double Breasted Commission
Replies: 9
Views: 1367

Re: Double Breasted Commission

Firstly, I am not a beanpole. It just seems to me that double-breasted suits can turn the already deep-chested into the "rather substantial" and just seem to detract from any silhouette that isn't very svelte. Being over 6' does help, but not much. I must say that I do like the function of a double...
by dempsy444
Wed Sep 25, 2013 4:26 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Double Breasted Commission
Replies: 9
Views: 1367

Double Breasted Commission

Hi All, I'm considering commissioning my first DB suit and am leaning towards a 4X1 light or mid gray flannel, preferably a chalk stipe or windowpane woolen. I was hoping to bounce a few questions off you. First, is a 4X1 right for my shape, which is 6'2 and a bit stocky and wide with a 46 inch ches...
by dempsy444
Sat Sep 21, 2013 4:26 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Adjusting jacket opening below front buttons
Replies: 35
Views: 3078

Re: Adjusting jacket opening below front buttons

I get tired of hearing those who like to defend the Row and put the onus on the customer for "not doing his research" or "being naive." It takes two to tango. Nobody is going to discount SR responsibility when they promised one thing and deliver another, but IMO an educated customer (having done hi...
by dempsy444
Fri Sep 20, 2013 6:05 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: RIP, Kilgour
Replies: 65
Views: 8448

Re: RIP, Kilgour

In the States, I have seen some of the English houses like Kilgour and Huntsman try and sell through stores like Barney's or Saks but it usually doesn't last long. The stores drop them and stick with their Italian lineup. I can see why a hedge fund would be attracted to these large Row brands. They ...
by dempsy444
Fri Sep 20, 2013 5:34 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Adjusting jacket opening below front buttons
Replies: 35
Views: 3078

Re: Adjusting jacket opening below front buttons

This has been a very instructive discussion. thank you. Julian, I'm sorry to hear about the rushed fitting. You deserved to see another fitting to get comfortable with the suit before they went to the final fitting and the fact that they didn't honor this is dishonorable. I get tired of hearing thos...
by dempsy444
Fri Sep 20, 2013 4:29 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: RIP, Kilgour
Replies: 65
Views: 8448

Re: RIP, Kilgour

I would think bespoke is too strategic to their overall plan to be a nudge towards the cliff. But I guess it really depends on the temperament and disposition of the new owners. It sort of reminds me of the situation with the Washington Post and Amazon.
by dempsy444
Sat Aug 10, 2013 2:32 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Cary Grant's suit design
Replies: 30
Views: 4405

Re: Cary Grant's suit design

You aren't giving Grant too much credit and his tailor too little? I'm sure he was a very sophisticated customer but....
by dempsy444
Mon Aug 05, 2013 1:08 am
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Trouser classics on a budget
Replies: 14
Views: 1316

Re: Trouser classics on a budget

Incotex (RTW) is good. I agree wholeheartedly! My favorite rtw trousers. But I haven't come across models with a higher waistline and 2 pleats. Most have no pleats or 1 smaller one. If you can guide me/us to the more classical look the OP is asking for, I/we would be much obliged. Cheers T I didn't...
by dempsy444
Sun Aug 04, 2013 12:34 am
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Trouser classics on a budget
Replies: 14
Views: 1316

Re: Trouser classics on a budget

Incotex (RTW) is good.
by dempsy444
Sat Aug 03, 2013 6:04 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: A&S critic
Replies: 52
Views: 8253

Re: A&S critic

pur_sang wrote:dempsy444, I will say the A.Caraceni probably has less structure, but it does look more structured. If you felt the garment, it does not feel thick or padded anywhere.
Sounds like a great suit. Would be interesting to see a pic of your A. Caraceni and A&S.