The London Lounge

That would make a very fine LL cloth club project.

His coat looks more like a stylized smock than a lounge suit.It wouldn't be unheard of for a fashion designer to request his own cut by his favourite tailor.Arnold Scassi used to(not sure about now) have Edward Sexton make a single breasted peak lapel suit that buttoned like an overcoat and was very...

I know he's used Doug Hayward and A&S over the years,but he's seems very promiscuous with his patronage of many fine vendors.

That really is a great suit and look by Valentino.There is so much harmony in that outfit that is suprises me he doesn't try it more often. Any ideas what that material is? Is it a light flannel? Would it work as well in a subtle POW?

Alex,

Review this thread and note the three variations in soft styles from London, Rome and Naples.Note the different shoulder pitch's,widths and upper arm fullness.

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/vie ... php?t=6784

Your shoulders look pretty straight to me, so you don't need much padding,if any.Focus, rather, on the width of the shoulders.A great reference point is comparing the jackets worn by Uppercase that were made by Caraceni and Marigliano;small changes in the wadding and width can really effect the tota...

Valentino is a paradox. He wears beautiful Caraceni suits, yet they are tweaked to an extreme.They are tight, and the pants always too long with too much break;then he wears jarring accessory combinations that say he's trying too hard to appear elegant,when to my eye, he's drifting into camp territo...

That is a stand alone piece of wadding, not padding.Padding is a pre-formed horseshoe shaped cap that fits over the shoulder head and parts of the trapezius, and wadding,in layers, is found inside that cap.Removing a layer will alter the pitch of the pad,but there is still an uniformity of line that...

Regardless of it's origins, it looks better with a rounded, open front,especially with his cut.Can he take in some of the width around the hips? The DB above has a beautiful lapel and full drape, but it also makes you look portly;maybe AS purists love that look,but why look frumpy for traditions sake?

Montalban was once doing an interview program in Toronto sometime in 1987 and he asked Brian Linehan where was the best tailor in town.He was sent to Ed Provan's, and both of the store partners told me he was the most gracious and courtly celebrity they had dealt with in decades.He sent along a sign...

I don't think you need any structure at all.This coat is very well cut, the armholes are snug, and the shoulder line is about right.Your tailor did a fine job and it looks very good on you.

Two things:

Both upper sleeves look too snug and need more room.They are both pulling.He should have caught that.

It wouldn't hurt to shorten the pant length so you get just the barest of break.

Agnelli's suit is a grey flannel.He was often photographed in that era(1967-1970) in that suit wearing a grey wool tie and v-neck sweater.

Try a shepherd's check vs a houndstooth.

The real outrage is the cost of RTW.Many are close to par with bespoke.