Search found 14 matches

by fontana1
Sun Aug 21, 2016 7:43 am
Forum: The Structure of Style
Topic: An interview with Bernhard Roetzel
Replies: 113
Views: 20064

Re: An interview with Bernhard Roetzel

I recently met Mr Roetzel, by coincidence, in Jungmann in Vienna. Only a day later did I realize who he was. He was dressed in a POW suit and brown suede shoes, which he wore his clothing with style. We spoke briefly about style in the context of bespoke clothing and the tailors who make it (not jus...
by fontana1
Mon Nov 11, 2013 7:37 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Shoulder narrowing
Replies: 6
Views: 990

Re: Shoulder narrowing

Go into A&S, tell them the problem...my guess is they will most likely make the alteration you are looking for.
by fontana1
Wed Oct 24, 2012 7:36 pm
Forum: The Structure of Style
Topic: Sprezzatura: my observations...
Replies: 60
Views: 5166

Re: Sprezzatura: my observations...

I am not very experienced in dressing, but I find that wearing flannel, linen or tweed makes me feel more relaxed and unaffected. I have 30 serious darkish worsted suits and I don't feel so easily unaffected. I am now lucky that, at my age and position, I can wear whatever I want, so I tend to leave...
by fontana1
Wed May 23, 2012 6:55 pm
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Storage For Braces
Replies: 10
Views: 1279

Re: Storage For Braces

Never take them off the trousers....braces for every pair of trousers.
by fontana1
Mon May 07, 2012 7:14 pm
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Corduroy suit, weight of cloth
Replies: 23
Views: 3894

Re: Corduroy suit, weight of cloth

Great looking suit!
by fontana1
Sat Feb 18, 2012 4:51 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Bootmaking videos by Anthony Delos
Replies: 6
Views: 877

Re: Bootmaking videos by Anthony Delos

Wow, what a great film.
by fontana1
Sun Jan 08, 2012 7:12 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: The plague of publicity
Replies: 41
Views: 4506

Re: The plague of publicity

May I dare speak a word in favor of my (well known) SR house....I visit my cutter at least once a month, never feel pressure from the staff to make a commission, have my questions regarding cloth and cut answered with clarity and patience, have required alterations taken care of promptly. Things are...
by fontana1
Mon Dec 26, 2011 4:51 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Alterations question
Replies: 6
Views: 1044

Re: Alterations question

Thanks Frank. My first port of call was of course my tailor (he has made many jackets for me). But he seemed concerned that "tightening" the collar by 1/2 might throw off the patterns of the jacket...it's a rather loud tweed windowpane. I was just wondering if any other members may have had such an ...
by fontana1
Sun Dec 25, 2011 8:56 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Alterations question
Replies: 6
Views: 1044

Alterations question

I recently picked up, from a SR house, a bespoke jacket that looked fine in the shop. After wearing it several times, however, I noticed that the right lapel tended, when the jacket is buttoned, to break a few inches above the button point, especially after wearing it for 5-10 minutes. I checked tha...
by fontana1
Thu Jul 14, 2011 2:38 pm
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Shoes in Vienna
Replies: 6
Views: 1892

Re: Shoes in Vienna

I have had many pairs of shoes made by Maftei. The quality is excellent, price ca €600-700, turnaround from order to finished product 2-4 weeks. You can take him an old pair of shoes and he will make a new pair just like it, whether a Viennese, English, Italian or French style shoe. Materna has also...
by fontana1
Mon Feb 14, 2011 6:37 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: New tweed coat
Replies: 13
Views: 3565

Re: New tweed coat

It would be great to hear from one our our professional tailors on this issue of the dimple. What causes it and especially how to fix it....or what instructions to give to cutter so that it doesn't appear the next time.
by fontana1
Mon Jan 24, 2011 6:34 am
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: John Lobb Paris Bespoke
Replies: 37
Views: 6619

Re: John Lobb Paris Bespoke

My experience is that a trained eye can tell right away if a pair of shoes is truly bespoke. My own shoemaker puts together ('makes') shoes for Lobb. He receives from Lobb the clicked and sewn leather with the last, and he stitches the leather by hand around the last to a sole, and sends it all back...
by fontana1
Sun Jan 23, 2011 2:35 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: A new blazer
Replies: 8
Views: 2464

Re: A new blazer

Uppercase

I would propose SB, 12-13 ounce flannel from Smith Woollens in a 'blue' navy, made by A&S. I have this coat and find it both practical and elegant.

Best
C.
by fontana1
Mon Jan 17, 2011 8:08 am
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Appropriate dress for Big Budget Broadway theatre show?
Replies: 10
Views: 1747

Re: Appropriate dress for Big Budget Broadway theatre show?

I am originally from New York but have lived in Vienna, Austria for over 20 years. Men here often still wear a suit for going out to dinner, not to mention going to the opera or symphony, notwithstanding the many tourists. I am sometimes shocked when visiting New York by the attire of men at social ...