Search found 337 matches

by iammatt
Wed Feb 11, 2009 7:19 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Idealized drape
Replies: 28
Views: 15586

Matt, can you feel the padding from outside, or do you just know it's there? I'm probably just not able to tell what's going on. I looked at the shoulder of an unlined jacket once. There are a few cuttings of light wool, only on the back of the shoulder, only near the end of the shoulder line. I do...
by iammatt
Wed Feb 11, 2009 7:01 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Idealized drape
Replies: 28
Views: 15586

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a40/uppercase1/DSC01174.jpg Mine are like this, though the padding Rubinacci uses looks to be slightly lighter. More of an open weave of wool. Not really sure about that, though. Some have a bit of felt under the sleevehead, on the sleeve side for support, and some ...
by iammatt
Sat Jan 10, 2009 7:54 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Full-legged trousers
Replies: 42
Views: 10552

I am going to be a bit of a contrarian on this one. My feeling is that a good pair of pants needs to fit the rump first, so the design of any pair is determined by the shape of a person's posterior. Since I think everybody dislikes baggy bottoms, the seat needs to fit pretty cleanly. Now, if the sea...
by iammatt
Sun Jan 04, 2009 5:24 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Feature Article: Artisan visit-Michael Drake
Replies: 44
Views: 13140

Here is the pic, and it is not a particularly good one. The brown is a slightly grayish brown, which I think works with almost everything. The spots look white in the pic, but since they are not high contrast, i think you can tell that they are not pure white. Sorry for the poor photo. http://img155...
by iammatt
Wed Dec 31, 2008 5:35 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Feature Article: Artisan visit-Michael Drake
Replies: 44
Views: 13140

I have a pocket square which is a perfect version of the latter, and find that it harmonizes with just about everything Matt, If you post a picture of your pocket square or email me a pic, I will send take when I am next in London with Michael Drake. I'll be back home at the end of the week. Then w...
by iammatt
Mon Dec 29, 2008 3:48 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Feature Article: Artisan visit-Michael Drake
Replies: 44
Views: 13140

The square silk scarf shown in the first pics is very elegant. Can I assume that when they become available, we will have some idea as to where we might find them? They will be available here as LL products in the clothclub. I am just now choosing the colors for the first series. It seems to me tha...
by iammatt
Mon Dec 29, 2008 3:06 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Feature Article: Artisan visit-Michael Drake
Replies: 44
Views: 13140

The square silk scarf shown in the first pics is very elegant. Can I assume that when they become available, we will have some idea as to where we might find them? There are a couple of ladies 35" squares on the Drakes site, but the patterns, even though they are dots, seem to be a little less mascu...
by iammatt
Sat May 24, 2008 4:40 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: New suit with pictures
Replies: 22
Views: 8334

I'm sorry, but this suit looks to have a lot of problems, especially in the shoulder area. The balance also looks way off to me. I think they need to seriously rework it, and possibly even remake it.
by iammatt
Tue May 06, 2008 1:20 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Gallo socks
Replies: 16
Views: 6869

Thanks for the replies and info. Very interesting about the quality compared to Falke I was looking at the no6 knee high wool/silk and also the airport range and as quality is important then I might stick to Falke until I get a chance to see the Gallo up close on my next trip to London or Milan. My...
by iammatt
Mon May 05, 2008 10:10 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Gallo socks
Replies: 16
Views: 6869

Gallo has great patterns and middling quality. Sort of what you would expect from a fashion brand.

Falke is far superior quality wise.
by iammatt
Tue Apr 08, 2008 3:01 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Jon Green Bespoke Suit
Replies: 16
Views: 11415

Is that your normal posture? If so, there are some worrisome things going on, at least to my eye. Do you have a bigger picture?
by iammatt
Wed Mar 26, 2008 4:13 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Roman and Neapolitan Styles
Replies: 39
Views: 29088

The man makes the tailor and the clothes. I have been writing this for years. Cheers Question on this. So does that mean that you believe that if two men choose the same cloth at a rather opinionated tailor like A&S, they will get rather different results simply because of the input they have in th...
by iammatt
Wed Mar 26, 2008 3:31 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Roman and Neapolitan Styles
Replies: 39
Views: 29088

The man makes the tailor and the clothes. I have been writing this for years. Cheers Question on this. So does that mean that you believe that if two men choose the same cloth at a rather opinionated tailor like A&S, they will get rather different results simply because of the input they have in th...
by iammatt
Wed Mar 26, 2008 2:47 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Roman and Neapolitan Styles
Replies: 39
Views: 29088

I have to agree with UC. We have just as good cameras and photographers today. It’s the subject matter that is missing or is inferior. But that is another and very interesting topic that parallels the decline of elegance, the extinction of masculinity. I agree with this. The last time I was in Napl...
by iammatt
Wed Mar 26, 2008 1:25 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: English v Neapolitan - is it all in the length?
Replies: 25
Views: 10418

As far as the question of Your post "English v Neapolitan - is it all in the length?" I believe that jacket length does not represent the main difference between the two tailoring schools; indeed only Mariano Rubinacci , according to the taste of his father Gennaro tightly bound to the traditional ...