Search found 18 matches

by Houndstooth
Mon Oct 17, 2005 11:37 am
Forum: The Sartorials
Topic: Expertise Needed in Bespoke Tailor
Replies: 8
Views: 2709

Re: Expertise Needed in Bespoke Tailor

Dear SouthPender In your original final para you ask: "Is it necessary to trust the job to only a well-known tailor with a reputation for excellence?" I would say that the reputation for excellence is very important and an important benchmark for the purchaser. Such a reputation will have been hard-...
by Houndstooth
Tue Sep 27, 2005 12:48 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: A&S handiwork/stitching
Replies: 12
Views: 4239

A&S handiwork/stitching

Dear All I noticed a recent post on another forum (ahem!) which was submitted by an existing A&S customer and which was rather 'guarded' regarding the typical handiwork/stitching on the A&S product. This in turn reminded me of a much earlier comment (quoted in Richard Walker's 1988 SR book) by Profe...
by Houndstooth
Mon Sep 26, 2005 11:12 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Chips "with everything"
Replies: 6
Views: 2290

Chips "with everything"

I was browsing recently through some of the diaries of Sir Henry Channon (known as 'Chips'), the wealthy socialite and Member of Parliament (born 1897, died 1958). There is very little about clothes in the diaries; eg. Chips clearly favoured Savile Row with his patronage but the diaries do not divul...
by Houndstooth
Fri Sep 23, 2005 7:28 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Differences: Donegal and Harris Tweeds
Replies: 16
Views: 6125

I concur with the comments regarding the "scratchiness" of traditional Harris tweed (though of course this is also an indicator of its durability). I believe a potential additional problem with Harris tweed trousers is that they do not readily hold/keep a crease. Having said all of that, I understan...
by Houndstooth
Thu Sep 22, 2005 3:48 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Question for Etuttee (and others!) - double vents on jackets
Replies: 2
Views: 2062

Question for Etuttee (and others!) - double vents on jackets

I think I'm correct in saying that the still-current custom (certainly in Europe) of 'fitting' double vents to jackets (or, more properly, coats!) dates from the first half of the 20th century. Can any fellow Loungers tell me more?? eg. a more precise time line; which types of coat led the way? what...
by Houndstooth
Thu Sep 22, 2005 3:38 pm
Forum: Etutee Apparel Arts Library
Topic: Vol. I No. VI (Sept 05') CONCERNING SHOES from AA / ESKY
Replies: 34
Views: 34838

Etutee Firstly, thank you for such an informative post (as ever!). Secondly, a couple of quick questions: 1. what is the year/date of the 'closet' picture on your post? 2. I'm intrigued by the description of the loafers as "Norwegian Peasant Shoes" - I assume this was the phrase used at the time? Wh...
by Houndstooth
Thu Sep 22, 2005 10:14 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Savile Row consolidation
Replies: 1
Views: 1456

Savile Row consolidation

Dear All In the decades since the 1950-60s it is I think indisputable (sadly) that the number of SR firms has greatly reduced. This is due (amongst other things) to: 1. retiral of one-man cutter/proprietors. 2. purchase/acquisition by competitors. 3. a sadly reduced demand for the SR product (linked...
by Houndstooth
Tue Sep 20, 2005 2:16 pm
Forum: The Sartorials
Topic: Eye-catching!
Replies: 13
Views: 4144

Eye-catching!

Dear fellow Loungers I was wondering....what single EXTERNAL aspect of a bespoke suit most sums up or represents for you the notion of bespoke? Or, to put it another way, as you pass your fellow man 'in the street' what one characteristic of his dress might most surely convey to you whether or not h...
by Houndstooth
Fri Sep 16, 2005 2:42 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Pinstripe/Chalkstripe: do you prefer to bury or to praise?
Replies: 16
Views: 5264

Pinstripe/Chalkstripe: do you prefer to bury or to praise?

NB - the following is NOT meant to be offensive! I currently do not own, not do I foresee much likelihood that I will ever purchase, a pinstripe/chalkstripe suit. There are 3 main reasons for my bias (prejudice?!): 1. Personally I find pinstripes to be rather 'unimaginative', especially given the ra...
by Houndstooth
Fri Sep 16, 2005 8:19 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Bogart's Suits in "The Big Sleep"
Replies: 10
Views: 3410

I have a pet theory (probably wrong!) on the ventless coats of the 1920s-40s, as follows. Amongst other reasons they were designed this way in order to 'restrict' the wearer's ability to shove his hands into his trouser pockets and thereby to slouch. Or put another way, they were designed to facilit...
by Houndstooth
Thu Sep 15, 2005 12:41 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Same old same old, or variety is the spice?
Replies: 1
Views: 1118

Same old same old, or variety is the spice?

Since my early twenties and the onset of working life, and for the past 20 years or so, I have been (budget permitting!!) a regular-ish MTM/bespoke suit purchaser. Whilst fabric selections have differed and personal configurations have (ahem!) altered over time, I have remained throughout wedded to ...
by Houndstooth
Wed Sep 14, 2005 10:41 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Ugh! I need emergency black tie help in London
Replies: 8
Views: 2711

Dear Bry2000 I live in the SE of England and would offer a personal opinion as follows: 1. given the circumstances you outline, I think your "lack" of a dinner jacket is entirely understandable. 2. It might be prudent for you to explain in advance to your hosts that you won't be wearing a DJ. That g...
by Houndstooth
Wed Sep 14, 2005 7:47 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Has anyone ever seen Prince Charles with his jacket off?
Replies: 4
Views: 2203

Back in his A&S days I do recall seeing a photo of him with his suit jacket undone which suggested that he favoured one of those "integrated" sort of belts, ie. made out of the same material as the suit and sort of integrated into the trouser waist (sorry - don't know correct description!) Houndstooth
by Houndstooth
Thu Sep 08, 2005 12:53 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: What is the size of the biggest SR houses today?
Replies: 23
Views: 8392

I agree, TVD, although to be fair I do believe that stated turnover figures are usually a true/fair representation of sales volume.
Therefore the particular unknown for me is how many suits/overcoats/jackets/accessories/etc lie behind Poole's sales of £2.2m or Davies £1.1m......

Houndstooth
by Houndstooth
Thu Sep 08, 2005 12:23 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Savile Row 'marketing'
Replies: 6
Views: 2466

Savile Row 'marketing'

Many SR tailors seem to have websites, and personally I have found them to be generally interesting and informative (with English Cut a favourite). Question: might we one day see an A&S website??! (I know they're traditionally a very dicreet outfit....but I now understand that they display mannequin...