Search found 34 matches
- Fri Mar 27, 2015 8:33 pm
- Forum: The Bespoke Forum
- Topic: Evening Tails (White Tie)
- Replies: 23
- Views: 2944
Re: Evening Tails (White Tie)
There is much more thought and consideration in making tails over a conventional suit. There are also multiple methods of cutting tails and they are all appropriate variations. I start with the height of the trouser, usually cut higher for this application. This has to balance with the front length ...
- Tue Jul 10, 2012 2:11 pm
- Forum: The Bespoke Forum
- Topic: Holland and Sherry "Nevada"
- Replies: 11
- Views: 1622
Re: Holland and Sherry "Nevada"
That's not a cloth from the Nevada book. Nevada was a wool/poly blend. Just confirmed with H&S.Man at C&A wrote: it's a wool, cotton and linen blend. Having handled it I'd suggest the linen content is quite low. I wasn't impressed with it.
- Tue Jul 10, 2012 4:11 am
- Forum: The Bespoke Forum
- Topic: Holland and Sherry "Nevada"
- Replies: 11
- Views: 1622
Re: Holland and Sherry "Nevada"
Two things about this cloth no one has mentioned. The books are withdrawn so you have to find stock somewhere beyond H&S and the cloth is 50% wool and 50% polyester. This may not be as cool as all wool.
- Wed Jun 27, 2012 2:50 pm
- Forum: The Bespoke Forum
- Topic: Breast pocket placement
- Replies: 6
- Views: 1108
Re: Breast pocket placement
The breast pocket position in these two pictures is intentional. The pocket is in relation to how the lapel covers just the corner of the breast pocket about 1cm. This was the approach of Italian tailors I trained with. We would make and finish the lapels before making the breast pocket to get this ...
- Sun Jan 08, 2012 5:04 pm
- Forum: The Bespoke Forum
- Topic: The plague of publicity
- Replies: 41
- Views: 4505
Re: The plague of publicity
Michael, I agree with your thoughts 100%. Saville Row tailors are in the same spot American car maker Cadillac was a few years back. They had cache with a certain generation but needed to reach a younger audience so they adapt a strategy to reach this new group. Rather than "clarifying and defining ...
- Sun Oct 23, 2011 6:44 pm
- Forum: The Bespoke Forum
- Topic: Number of Fittings
- Replies: 82
- Views: 11318
Re: Number of Fittings
Some perspective from a tailors point of view. Fittings are where the rubber meets the road. With a new client it is flesh and bones created from all the preliminary discussion and analysis between client and tailor. It is the tangible transition/translation of tape measure to paper to cloth. My mai...
- Sun Oct 23, 2011 7:24 am
- Forum: The Bespoke Forum
- Topic: The Ultimate Flaneur whiskey and cigar suit?
- Replies: 10
- Views: 2279
Re: The Ultimate Flaneur whiskey and cigar suit?
For the Niven look check out the new Harrison's Moonbeam book. 80% of the book are windowpanes and you will find unique color combinations. For windowpane suitings look at the Ariston line. As for the suiting of the second look, my first thought was a faille cloth in a light matte grey. If you perus...
- Sun Aug 28, 2011 4:17 pm
- Forum: The Bespoke Forum
- Topic: What trousers to pair with a navy blazer
- Replies: 8
- Views: 2101
Re: What trousers to pair with a navy blazer
The key to wearing the ubiquitous navy blazer is in the accessorizing. Quality accessories and care to color and texture will distinguish your look. Be aware of the contrast of the hopsack weave and the weave of the trouser. The more color contrast between jacket and trouser, the more casual/sporty ...
- Tue Jun 30, 2009 5:09 pm
- Forum: The Bespoke Forum
- Topic: Last Chance to Change My DJ
- Replies: 41
- Views: 7785
Re: Last Chance to Change My DJ
How is silk ottoman different from gros grain?
- Tue Jun 30, 2009 4:10 pm
- Forum: The Bespoke Forum
- Topic: Last Chance to Change My DJ
- Replies: 41
- Views: 7785
Re: Last Chance to Change My DJ
Is there a difference between the occasions on which one would necessarily wear a DB peaked instead of a DB shawl? Only in my own mind, not historically to my knowledge. From L. Fellowes and Spy illustrations from the past I see shawls in environments of cruises and resorts. Not exclusively but gen...
- Mon Jun 29, 2009 12:23 am
- Forum: The Bespoke Forum
- Topic: Last Chance to Change My DJ
- Replies: 41
- Views: 7785
Re: Last Chance to Change My DJ
DB with peaks, then shawl.
- Sun Jun 28, 2009 9:35 pm
- Forum: The Bespoke Forum
- Topic: Last Chance to Change My DJ
- Replies: 41
- Views: 7785
Re: Last Chance to Change My DJ
I may be the lone dissident here but if I was getting one DJ for the long haul it would not be a shawl. My game plan would be SB PL with a vest. Later down the road I would get a DB shawl. The pictures in your post are light/white jackets. Shawls are great for that but not your lone DJ. It is my per...
- Sun Jun 28, 2009 9:15 pm
- Forum: The Bespoke Forum
- Topic: Bespoke Overcoat
- Replies: 62
- Views: 15379
Re: Bespoke Overcoat
If the coat is dedicated to black tie and city businesswear, navy is fine. Once you wear it with sportcoats and casual trousers it looks wrong. There are navy/black herringbones which I would style 3X2 DB. This is elegant. Make sure the coat length is long enough to look balanced. When you wear it w...
- Mon Feb 16, 2009 6:01 am
- Forum: The Bespoke Forum
- Topic: Chris Despos
- Replies: 10
- Views: 3777
Re: Chris Despos
Hello everyone. I have read in various places that Chris Despos' house style is changing somewhat from a more structured jacket to a softer one. Is this true? Thank you. JG, thank you for the inquiry. My jackets undergo some evolutionary change as I age but I have done soft jackets for a good while...
- Tue Oct 14, 2008 5:37 am
- Forum: The Bespoke Forum
- Topic: Paul Stuart in Chicago on the move.
- Replies: 9
- Views: 2680