Search found 34 matches

by Despos
Fri Mar 27, 2015 8:33 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Evening Tails (White Tie)
Replies: 23
Views: 2944

Re: Evening Tails (White Tie)

There is much more thought and consideration in making tails over a conventional suit. There are also multiple methods of cutting tails and they are all appropriate variations. I start with the height of the trouser, usually cut higher for this application. This has to balance with the front length ...
by Despos
Tue Jul 10, 2012 2:11 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Holland and Sherry "Nevada"
Replies: 11
Views: 1622

Re: Holland and Sherry "Nevada"

Man at C&A wrote: it's a wool, cotton and linen blend. Having handled it I'd suggest the linen content is quite low. I wasn't impressed with it.
That's not a cloth from the Nevada book. Nevada was a wool/poly blend. Just confirmed with H&S.
by Despos
Tue Jul 10, 2012 4:11 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Holland and Sherry "Nevada"
Replies: 11
Views: 1622

Re: Holland and Sherry "Nevada"

Two things about this cloth no one has mentioned. The books are withdrawn so you have to find stock somewhere beyond H&S and the cloth is 50% wool and 50% polyester. This may not be as cool as all wool.
by Despos
Wed Jun 27, 2012 2:50 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Breast pocket placement
Replies: 6
Views: 1108

Re: Breast pocket placement

The breast pocket position in these two pictures is intentional. The pocket is in relation to how the lapel covers just the corner of the breast pocket about 1cm. This was the approach of Italian tailors I trained with. We would make and finish the lapels before making the breast pocket to get this ...
by Despos
Sun Jan 08, 2012 5:04 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: The plague of publicity
Replies: 41
Views: 4505

Re: The plague of publicity

Michael, I agree with your thoughts 100%. Saville Row tailors are in the same spot American car maker Cadillac was a few years back. They had cache with a certain generation but needed to reach a younger audience so they adapt a strategy to reach this new group. Rather than "clarifying and defining ...
by Despos
Sun Oct 23, 2011 6:44 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Number of Fittings
Replies: 82
Views: 11318

Re: Number of Fittings

Some perspective from a tailors point of view. Fittings are where the rubber meets the road. With a new client it is flesh and bones created from all the preliminary discussion and analysis between client and tailor. It is the tangible transition/translation of tape measure to paper to cloth. My mai...
by Despos
Sun Oct 23, 2011 7:24 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: The Ultimate Flaneur whiskey and cigar suit?
Replies: 10
Views: 2279

Re: The Ultimate Flaneur whiskey and cigar suit?

For the Niven look check out the new Harrison's Moonbeam book. 80% of the book are windowpanes and you will find unique color combinations. For windowpane suitings look at the Ariston line. As for the suiting of the second look, my first thought was a faille cloth in a light matte grey. If you perus...
by Despos
Sun Aug 28, 2011 4:17 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: What trousers to pair with a navy blazer
Replies: 8
Views: 2101

Re: What trousers to pair with a navy blazer

The key to wearing the ubiquitous navy blazer is in the accessorizing. Quality accessories and care to color and texture will distinguish your look. Be aware of the contrast of the hopsack weave and the weave of the trouser. The more color contrast between jacket and trouser, the more casual/sporty ...
by Despos
Tue Jun 30, 2009 5:09 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Last Chance to Change My DJ
Replies: 41
Views: 7785

Re: Last Chance to Change My DJ

How is silk ottoman different from gros grain?
by Despos
Tue Jun 30, 2009 4:10 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Last Chance to Change My DJ
Replies: 41
Views: 7785

Re: Last Chance to Change My DJ

Is there a difference between the occasions on which one would necessarily wear a DB peaked instead of a DB shawl? Only in my own mind, not historically to my knowledge. From L. Fellowes and Spy illustrations from the past I see shawls in environments of cruises and resorts. Not exclusively but gen...
by Despos
Mon Jun 29, 2009 12:23 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Last Chance to Change My DJ
Replies: 41
Views: 7785

Re: Last Chance to Change My DJ

DB with peaks, then shawl.
by Despos
Sun Jun 28, 2009 9:35 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Last Chance to Change My DJ
Replies: 41
Views: 7785

Re: Last Chance to Change My DJ

I may be the lone dissident here but if I was getting one DJ for the long haul it would not be a shawl. My game plan would be SB PL with a vest. Later down the road I would get a DB shawl. The pictures in your post are light/white jackets. Shawls are great for that but not your lone DJ. It is my per...
by Despos
Sun Jun 28, 2009 9:15 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Bespoke Overcoat
Replies: 62
Views: 15379

Re: Bespoke Overcoat

If the coat is dedicated to black tie and city businesswear, navy is fine. Once you wear it with sportcoats and casual trousers it looks wrong. There are navy/black herringbones which I would style 3X2 DB. This is elegant. Make sure the coat length is long enough to look balanced. When you wear it w...
by Despos
Mon Feb 16, 2009 6:01 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Chris Despos
Replies: 10
Views: 3777

Re: Chris Despos

Hello everyone. I have read in various places that Chris Despos' house style is changing somewhat from a more structured jacket to a softer one. Is this true? Thank you. JG, thank you for the inquiry. My jackets undergo some evolutionary change as I age but I have done soft jackets for a good while...
by Despos
Tue Oct 14, 2008 5:37 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Paul Stuart in Chicago on the move.
Replies: 9
Views: 2680

The store is open.
It is more accessible, being at street level and looks more inviting than the Hancock location. Warmer, more personal environment, IMO.