Search found 29 matches

by hsw9001
Tue Dec 15, 2015 2:43 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Bespoke shirtmaker
Replies: 104
Views: 11437

Re: Bespoke shirtmaker

I finally received my order that was placed in July. It seems Mary is back in Italy these days. I hope she goes back to making soon. I have 5 more shirt lengths waiting for when she returns.
by hsw9001
Fri Oct 09, 2015 1:59 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Bespoke shirtmaker
Replies: 104
Views: 11437

Re: Bespoke shirtmaker

I suspect he means Finollo in Genoa and perhaps Anna Matuozzo in Naples. Don't know about Rome.
by hsw9001
Mon Oct 05, 2015 9:30 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Bespoke shirtmaker
Replies: 104
Views: 11437

Re: Bespoke shirtmaker

One of the hidden, goulish benefits of going to an established shop rather than a sole proprietor. At Charvet, the departure of a sous-chef will not stop the meals from appearing nightly. It's tough to justify the 2-3x cost of Charvet. Also they are less flexible. Charvet couldn't do a fitting the ...
by hsw9001
Mon Oct 05, 2015 6:37 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Bespoke shirtmaker
Replies: 104
Views: 11437

Re: Bespoke shirtmaker

Good to know that she might one day return. Thanks!

I have several lengths of Alumo waiting to be made up.
by hsw9001
Mon Oct 05, 2015 5:57 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Bespoke shirtmaker
Replies: 104
Views: 11437

Re: Bespoke shirtmaker

Did you guys get an email from Mary that she's taking a break from shirt making? I have 2 shirts in the works with her.
by hsw9001
Mon Aug 18, 2014 12:21 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Berluti
Replies: 6
Views: 922

Re: Berluti

Berluti bought out Delos to bring him on board a few years ago. I tried getting an appointment with Delos but got the run around. Apparently they are quite protective of him. I heard it took Hugo Jacomet quite a while to convince Berluti to get the interview with Parisian Gentlemen. If you are able ...
by hsw9001
Fri Jul 04, 2014 4:33 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Dinner suit in midnight blue
Replies: 70
Views: 8529

Re: Dinner suit in midnight blue

I've a tailcoat made from 8810, a wool/mohair blend. Around 9/10 oz IIRC.
by hsw9001
Fri May 09, 2014 7:07 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Choppin & Lodge?
Replies: 51
Views: 5447

Re: Choppin & Lodge?

^ It's a fair point, but to elaborate I live in NYC and will, in all probability have no future opportunity to wear a morning suit. If the case was for black tie, I would certainly agree - I bought mine from KH&L, and despite using it only 1-2 times per year, have found it a worthy investment. You ...
by hsw9001
Sun Mar 23, 2014 3:39 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: 1930s exhibit at FIT in NYC
Replies: 8
Views: 1233

Re: 1930s exhibit at FIT in NYC

The Cleverley in this exhibition were really nice. The Astaire shoes looked like they were made without the toepuft. I wouldn't mind going again if my Boyer gave a tour. It would have to be after April 7th for me.
by hsw9001
Thu Oct 10, 2013 3:08 am
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Breast pockets on overcoats
Replies: 10
Views: 973

Re: Breast pockets on overcoats

I like pockets on my overcoats. That's where I keep my cellphone.
by hsw9001
Tue Jul 16, 2013 4:01 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Manton's Wedding Speech/Post
Replies: 1
Views: 459

Re: Manton's Wedding Speech/Post

Use the Internet Time Machine to search AAAC or maybe even here. I have found it before at Ask Andy via the time machine.

I found it.

http://web.archive.org/web/201110110943 ... ATTIRE.htm
by hsw9001
Mon Jul 15, 2013 12:48 am
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Cifonelli RTW and MTM
Replies: 19
Views: 1466

Re: Cifonelli RTW and MTM

IMO good tailoring is not an interchangeable commodity. The French style is different from the English drape cut. If you are set on the French look, the English drape may not satisfy you. I thought this photoset of dirnelli's Camps de Luca bespoke fittings was a good demonstration of how good bespok...
by hsw9001
Wed Jul 10, 2013 6:01 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Fox Brothers White Flannels
Replies: 37
Views: 4035

Re: Fox Brothers White Flannels

The VBC feels like a 10-11 to me. You should check the book. I remember doing a search and there were alternatives at different weights from H&S and Dormeiul. The Lesser formal book has something quite similar too.
by hsw9001
Tue Jul 09, 2013 3:32 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Fox Brothers White Flannels
Replies: 37
Views: 4035

Re: Fox Brothers White Flannels

Ercole made it up for me. It wears warm and has a yellowish tinge. An alternative is in the VBC flannel book that is more grayish in hue and I think a little lighter in weight.
by hsw9001
Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:50 am
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Cifonelli RTW and MTM
Replies: 19
Views: 1466

Re: Cifonelli RTW and MTM

There is a French Tailoring thread at SF with some locals participating who claim to have tried pretty much every Parisian tailor at different price points. http://www.styleforum.net/t/346199/french-tailoring-thread-e-g-camps-de-luca-cifonelli-smalto-and-etc/30_30#post_6323126 You might be able to g...