The London Lounge

Your best bet is probably the Victoria and Albert museum. Perhaps Mr. Alden could shed some light on the procedures for that?

Welch-Margetson from pre-1910 makes no mention of seven-folds. As the foremost supplier of the time, it would be prudent to note that there are no ties in their catalog of the styles presently in use. Blades were squared or asymmetrically pointed. Widths varied from 2" to as much as 10". There was l...

If these are scans, one side of each is probably brighter than the other. This would make them look "butted" as you described. Lay down your first image. Paste the second image in a new layer (happens automatically). Go to the top of the Layers palette and reduce the opacity of the second layer to a...

Charvet

Does bespoke imply that the cutter takes the measurements? And back in the old days, was it not so that the guy who took the measurements was the guy who did the cutting and the cutter the guy who did the sewing? Regards, Gruto Cutter is defined quite differently depending upon geography and other ...

Would this same pattern be used on all subsequent shirts that you made for the client, or would the choice of fabric and perhaps style of the shirt require a new pattern evolving through the same process as before? Different styles of shirt usually require different patterns. The fitting process is...

Tailors generally chalk rather than pin due to the cloth weight. With the heavier cloths, the pins will pull in more than the intended amount of reduction. Besides, chalking - with all of the various different marks and their meanings - looks more esoteric than pinning. Tailors' work may be a bit mo...

Codifying a term for the various in-betweens is an untenable proposition, for the methods of accomplishing "Made-to-Measure" vary all over the map. All M-T-M makers use a basic pattern, usually a standard size. 15 1/2 is the most common size and it is normally accompanied by a 40" chest. How this pa...

I am not sure that I understand what you mean about the collar, can you explair and suggest what sort of alteration is done for that. Just above the gorge seam on the left collar, notice how the collar is sitting a bit farther away from your neck than on the right. There is the slightest of 'almost...

A true bespoke shirt involves the creation of a sample/trial (perhaps muslin) shirt and as many fitted try-ons as necessary to get the fit right. Without the try-ons, the shirt is MTM or custom. With a solitary exception, Ed's analysis is correct. The sole difference between "bespoke" and "custom" ...

Bit more ease on the left back than the right. Could be how you were standing. Not consequential. Beautiful lapels ... but the left collar is kicking out a smidgen. Should be brought in. Now the important stuff: Shirt buttons appear to be plastic. Either missing shirt collar stays or interlining ins...

Originally posted by RJ's cat Alex: I am not saying I agree that catalogs cheapen a brand. I was submitting it as a possible motivation on the part of some brands not to have one. On the other extreme, the Neimans Christmas catalog is a fetish object, and, particularly pre-Internet, the sort of cat...

I believe certain brands still feel that having a catalog cheapens them somewhat. With all due respect, RJMan, I do not agree either with the concept nor the veracity of the excuse for being sans catalog. In the first place, the planet has turned into a global village due not in small measure to th...

I have become rather disenchanted with the tailors here in the U.S. for exactly the reason you allude to. They absolutely should be taking on apprentices. This is the only avenue I have found which is presently open to you: Bespoke Tailoring Pre-Apprenticeship supported by Savile Row Bespoke Ltd Ne...

"The Suit" by Nicholas Antongiavanni. Available on Amazon.com.