Search found 79 matches

by exigent
Mon Mar 20, 2006 12:57 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: A Youngster's First Bespoke Experience in Asia
Replies: 36
Views: 16882

Grey chalk-stripe suit...

I must say that you look swell in your new grey chalk-stripe suit! A few observations: the jacket fits you well, and I shouldn't be overly concerned about length; your trousers are good, too, and it seems unproductive to raise the waist-line...but if you choose to do so in future, please consider th...
by exigent
Sun Dec 18, 2005 1:27 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Dressed for the road...
Replies: 22
Views: 8355

Ambien!!! E, I must say the Gokey's are a sublime touch...and I have to chime in on several fronts. I'm just back from a three-day trip--I was literally on the ground in front of customers in four time zones in a 60-hour round trip. Picked a helluva week to give up drinking... Between what I wore a...
by exigent
Fri Dec 16, 2005 6:56 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Dressed for the road...
Replies: 22
Views: 8355

Perhaps it's a generational thing, but I still like to wear coat and tie when travelling. I do think people in general are at least slightly more deferential to a well-dressed individual of either sex. However, my major reason for doing so is simply that if I arrive at my destination and fnd that m...
by exigent
Fri Dec 16, 2005 6:50 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Dressed for the road...
Replies: 22
Views: 8355

Ambien!!! E, I must say the Gokey's are a sublime touch...and I have to chime in on several fronts. I'm just back from a three-day trip--I was literally on the ground in front of customers in four time zones in a 60-hour round trip. Picked a helluva week to give up drinking... Between what I wore a...
by exigent
Thu Dec 15, 2005 1:56 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Side Strap Placement on Trousers?
Replies: 3
Views: 1593

On bespoke trousers, personal choice dictates placement. I have a pair on which the ring-adjusted straps are sewn below the waistband: works rather well, though rings are not nearly as secure as proper buckles; the rest of my trousers benefit from Daks-style adjusters sewn into the waistband itself....
by exigent
Wed Dec 14, 2005 1:03 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Dressed for the road...
Replies: 22
Views: 8355

A gentleman dresses properly as a sign of respect for the persons around him, but he also dresses for himself, as a matter of personal pride, which is not to be disdained. I take stock of everyone I meet--outward appearance has a profound effect on me; we seldom have time to learn anyone's true huma...
by exigent
Mon Dec 12, 2005 4:55 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Dressed for the road...
Replies: 22
Views: 8355

Excellent, tortured responses, gentlemen--thank you! I loathe air travel, as well; which is why I am traveling by Rolls Royce ("71 Silver Shadow with good mechanicals and minus the Prince of Darkness, which long ago was sucked out of this particular beast, in favor of Japanese electrics). My questio...
by exigent
Mon Dec 12, 2005 1:23 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Dressed for the road...
Replies: 22
Views: 8355

Dressed for the road...

I am a warrior of the Apocalypse, an old soldier who is reaching the end of the road, after a long and taxing career. Tired and physically diminished, my final contract now at an end, the time has come for me to withdraw from active service. My wife and I are moving to Cloud Cuckoo Land, a small tow...
by exigent
Sun Dec 11, 2005 8:44 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Cashmere scarves
Replies: 18
Views: 6765

Re: Cashmere scarves

In my continuing quest for to find the winter accessories most to my particular liking, I was wondering if you all have any recommendations on where to find the best cashmere sweaters and scarves. I was reading online about Johnsons of Elgin (Scotland) are they any good? Thanks, Cantab To answer yo...
by exigent
Wed Dec 07, 2005 6:38 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Exigent
Replies: 12
Views: 4312

We are quite aware of the PM option, Raphael--please note that most of the messages above are not personal: they are navigational.
by exigent
Wed Dec 07, 2005 7:36 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Exigent
Replies: 12
Views: 4312

Wonderful to meet you, JM!
by exigent
Sat Dec 03, 2005 7:59 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Leather Gloves
Replies: 70
Views: 33080

Anyone have a good recommendation for something similar in NY? Top quality gloves are getting harder to find. In London, one used to visit Beale & Inman, but the firm is long gone. Lord's in the Burlington Arcade was also a reliable source--and they too have disappeared. As Whittaker suggests, Pick...
by exigent
Sat Dec 03, 2005 7:13 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: length of a morning coat
Replies: 4
Views: 1827

Mine lines up roughly with the centre of the knee. May I hazzard a warning, though. The very fact you are asking suggests you may be using a tailor who does not often cut morning dress. It is hellishly difficult to cut the line of the tails to achieve a truly elegant effect, and the relation betwee...
by exigent
Thu Dec 01, 2005 10:11 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: What weight fabric should I use to test a new tailor?
Replies: 7
Views: 2801

It is true that there are Hong Kong tailors who do a swell job with lighter fabrics, but cloth in the 11-ounce range is nonetheless more forgiving. The important consideration here should be the ultimate use for the suit in question. If Kolecho is going to wear the thing in warm climes, then clearly...
by exigent
Thu Dec 01, 2005 7:32 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: What weight fabric should I use to test a new tailor?
Replies: 7
Views: 2801

Re: What weight fabric should I use to test a new tailor?

I am going to try a new tailor, and was wondering what cloth weight to use to test his skills. I have narrowed it down to two weights - 8oz or 11oz. Which would you suggest as good test of a tailor's skill, and why? Thanks in advance. If you wish to test the man's skills, I suggest that you use the...