The London Lounge

I'd have (and like) to see a picture of the entire coat front to analyze what the tailor meant.

In either case, it's well done. Although I do think that it's less the manipulation of quarters in the sense of the shape of the front edges.

Actually, I asked a Neapolitan tailor once why they extend the front dart and the answer was "to give better control over the front quarter." That is for me still the main reasoning for having this dart. The traditional fish dart one can find in classical Tailor & Cutter as well as many Italian dra...

Old Henry, I found a copy of the New Mitchell cutting system, so I know what you are talking about. Some German systems use(d) a similar method, but only after the early 50's. Until then German drafts looked a lot like British or Italian ones (fish dart and no side body). Thinking about it: Could it...

If the traditional tailors use it by default then there must exist a reason why they do it. Do you know it or could you ask one of the traditional Neapolitan tailors (or perhaps your very able and knowledgeable Sicilian tailor)? I would really like to know, since using it by default (using it for al...

And yet you will find that many members of other forums ask if a coat (made in Napoli) has the extended front dart. It appears that to them it's not a Neapolitan jacket if it hasn't got that dart. Same with the unpadded shoulder or the manica mappina / spalla camicia. AFAIK, some (Neapolitan) tailor...

I wouldn't dare to claim that I understand the why, but one reason given in an Italian manual I possess is that it helps to distribute/ eliminate the width in the front. Since some of the width is taken away it could be for a more athletic figure (stronger chest, narrow waist and hips) when there is...

That dimple is indeed caused by some tightness in the top of the sleeve crown. And extra length. It is possible that your tailor took in your right shoulder a bit but kept the original sleeve! That means that the sleeve crown is higher than necessary! Try this: Pin away the fold that shows up and ch...

Actually, at closer inspection it looks like a combination of both, deep cut neck hole in front and very straight cut shoulders.

To start with: That suit needs a firm pressing, but: Don't let any steam get near to it. Dry iron and a mildly moist pressing cloth is best. Press until cloth is totally dry. A few things I noticed (and may have been named by couch already): Lower right shoulder, no big deal. 1. Waist suppression in...

Robert DeNiro in The Godfather when he goes back to Sicily to kill the old man.. +1 That is a beauty. The lapels are outstanding, look at the roll: http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/8996/thegodfatherii1974keltz.jpg Has an interesting cut as well. Not the "regular" lounge coat. http://img685.images...

Alsinger have tried to up the made to measure game by offering a selection of fine fabrics from weavers such as Dormeuil, like some Savile Row houses have also done. This has made me wonder: If you decide to go made to measure for whatever reasons, would it be a waste using a superior fabric (such ...

Please don't confuse cutting (Zuschnitt) with tailoring (schneidern). The first is the process where you determine the style of the garment (including general width, length, shape of lapels, buttoning point and so on), the latter transforms the cut cloth into a garment. Good cutting makes good tailo...

Ideally according to whom? I, for one, would not want a "clean picture." My clean is just around the blades, the waist and the hips, the neck and a little bit around the sleeves, but it does not exclude additional width in the front and rear armscye. Maybe I have chosen the wrong translation for th...

There are 3 basic versions of "fit", tight, regular and loose, each one with variations and all seen and felt differently by the wearer, so "the one and only fit" does not exist. But all should have one thing in common: A good balance! By balance I mean the way the garment hangs on the wearer. Ideal...

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