Search found 8 matches

by stephen
Mon Mar 26, 2007 12:47 am
Forum: The Sartorials
Topic: VOL. III NO. I (Mar 07') Formal Daywear / Unique Suits AA
Replies: 26
Views: 32709

Thanks

Etutee,

Thank you for both your wonderful article and for your erudite reply to my query.

Stephen
by stephen
Fri Mar 23, 2007 1:18 am
Forum: The Sartorials
Topic: VOL. III NO. I (Mar 07') Formal Daywear / Unique Suits AA
Replies: 26
Views: 32709

Plain-tip Oxfords with Morning Dress

Some of the illustrations above appear to depict plain-tip oxfords with morning dress. Until recently, I had always thought that this was the most correct option for daytime formal and semi-formal. Manton's article on the subject brought that view into question. In researching the subject, I couldn'...
by stephen
Mon Dec 04, 2006 6:32 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Formality
Replies: 4
Views: 2358

Formality

In our times many of the old distinctions have been blurred. What are your thoughts on appropriate dress for various occasions, locales and times of day? For example, are striped suitings or brown shoes appropriate for city evenings? And, what is the city; what the country? Where are the dividing li...
by stephen
Mon Apr 03, 2006 4:54 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Vol. II No. IV (April 06') Spring-Summer / Palm Beach AA
Replies: 22
Views: 21724

Espadrilles with Laces

I believe that espadrilles with laces were worn in the Thirties. I've seen pictures of the Duke of Windsor wearing them, as well as illustrations by different artists.

Stephen
by stephen
Wed Mar 29, 2006 10:34 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Jermyn St the peking order of shirtmakers
Replies: 88
Views: 47590

Upcharge for Hand Sewn Buttons

I must say that I agree with Alex on this. The annoying practice of "itemizing" charges (nickel and diming) has grown increasingly common in recent years. The luxury sector is the last place you expect to encounter this. I was frankly shocked when I read that Paris Custom Shirts, as well as several ...
by stephen
Sun Jan 22, 2006 2:45 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Windsor's clothes Part 1
Replies: 34
Views: 39260

Re: Pants across the sea

Good observation. So much for "pants across the sea." The jacket is perfectly matched. According to the auction catalog, those "pants" were not from "across the sea", rather more like "across the street". To wit, they were made in the mid-1930's by the London firm of Forster & Son. Only later, did ...
by stephen
Sat Dec 10, 2005 12:00 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Luggage.
Replies: 32
Views: 9962

Hartmann Wings

I use a wheeled Hartmann Wings. I find it attractive and practical. I've had it for six years of frequent travel and it's still in good condition. Plus, I've never seen another one like it; which makes it easy to spot on the carousel among a sea of ubiquitous black bags.

Stephen
by stephen
Sun Nov 27, 2005 1:29 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Jacket Sleeve Cuff Width
Replies: 1
Views: 852

Jacket Sleeve Cuff Width

I've always admired the close fitting jacket cuffs one sees in old illustrations. Fred Astaire and Cary Grant often sported cuffs that came close to this ideal. However, in contemporary jackets, even bespoke, they rarely fit so closely. In Dressing the Man , Flusser states that they should measure a...