Search found 35 matches

by NES
Fri Feb 22, 2019 4:07 pm
Forum: The Sartorials
Topic: Trousers
Replies: 84
Views: 15380

Re: Trousers

What I initially had not understood was how dressing a trouser distributes space, not vertically (like a high crotch) but horizontally, in a way that allows for comfortable movement. I was only seeing the advantages of a high crotch for movement, and dressing as just creating additional room in one ...
by NES
Thu Feb 21, 2019 10:09 pm
Forum: The Sartorials
Topic: Trousers
Replies: 84
Views: 15380

Re: Trousers

I also understand now why there is no difference, regarding dress, between full and fitted trousers. Which was my initial doubt.
by NES
Thu Feb 21, 2019 9:51 pm
Forum: The Sartorials
Topic: Trousers
Replies: 84
Views: 15380

Re: Trousers

Thank you, Frank. Your explanation is absolutely clear. I'm not a tailor, but I had no doubt dress had to be given, and how it is given (from a layman point of view). What I didn't understand so completely, before your explanation, was the whole mechanics involved in the crotch. I was familiar with ...
by NES
Thu Feb 21, 2019 2:37 pm
Forum: The Sartorials
Topic: Trousers
Replies: 84
Views: 15380

Re: Trousers

The trousers look very good. Frank, do you mean dress should be taken (from the dress side)? From my observations, excessive fullness can be present in the dress side of full, pleated trousers, particulary with forward pleats, when dress is not taken. So, not only tight unpleated trousers need dress...
by NES
Wed Nov 10, 2010 9:01 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: The Myth of the Soft Shoulder
Replies: 148
Views: 31755

Re: The Myth of the Soft Shoulder

Nastassja Kinski... :wink:
And Marcello Mastroianni.
by NES
Thu Sep 30, 2010 8:49 pm
Forum: Great Photos
Topic: French Intellectuals
Replies: 6
Views: 2675

Re: French Intellectuals

I believe the word «intelectual» was first used as a noun by George Clemenceau in the newspaper L'Aurore, refering to his fellow dreyfusards - the supporters of Alfred Dreyfus in the Dreyfus Affair -: «N'est-ce pas un signe, tous ces intellectuels, venus de tous les coins de l'horizon, qui se groupe...
by NES
Thu Feb 04, 2010 5:08 pm
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Extra Trousers
Replies: 12
Views: 2092

Re: Extra Trousers

It will only make sense if you rotate the trousers.
The idea - because trousers wear out faster then coats and well worn is superior to new - would be having a well worn suit with two pairs of trousers, not a worn out pair of trousers with a well worn coat and a new pair of trousers.
by NES
Tue Feb 02, 2010 6:05 pm
Forum: Great Photos
Topic: Great smokers
Replies: 75
Views: 18745

Re: Great smokers

Image
by NES
Tue Jan 05, 2010 4:37 pm
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Evening Dress Braces.
Replies: 15
Views: 2747

Re: Evening Dress Braces.

The use of catgut - which was never made from the intestines of cats - is not illegal. It is still used in the strings of musical instruments. Thurston's catgut «was obtained from specialist manufacturers whose main market was the long line fishing industry, but then along came nylon monofilament…so...
by NES
Thu Nov 19, 2009 3:22 pm
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: The Raglan
Replies: 27
Views: 4552

Re: The Raglan

I think the raglan is informal because of the raglan sleeve. That is what defines its style. The roomy cut and the colours just go with it. We can see it worn with formal evening dress in illustrations from the thirties but I don't think it should be considered correct. At best it would be a form of...
by NES
Wed Jul 15, 2009 10:08 am
Forum: Elegant Living
Topic: Sartorial music
Replies: 17
Views: 3709

Re: Sartorial music

I can understand the Rolling Stones, altough I wouldn't take so much electricity in the morning...
Nessun Dorma is a good choice.
It's even more fun thinking of the outfits in which it is sang...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eg-59NoES2o

Do you think prince Calaf was a SR customer?
by NES
Mon Jul 13, 2009 6:01 pm
Forum: Elegant Living
Topic: Sartorial music
Replies: 17
Views: 3709

Re: Sartorial music

I have never thought of it as sartorial music or music to dress to, but I often listen to Schubert's String Quintet in C Major D. 956, when dressing or shaving.
It is, obviously, great music. But, also, as desperate as elegant.
by NES
Sun Jul 05, 2009 10:15 pm
Forum: Elegant Living
Topic: Standing Out
Replies: 19
Views: 3749

Re: Standing Out

In his excellent book History of Men's Fashions, Nicholas Storey says that Beau Brummel thought that the worst thing a gentleman could do was to be noticed for his dress. Does this apply today when in some cases a tucked in shirt is noticable? This is a complex question. If we try to understand Bru...
by NES
Sat Mar 21, 2009 4:13 am
Forum: Elegant Living
Topic: Colours and elegance
Replies: 37
Views: 6251

storeynicholas wrote: Gruto wrote: I get it's risky to dress in bold shirts and ties - one shouldn't start with them, but still I dont understand the unwillingness of using them alltogether. To me the challenge seems to be, how you control bold shirts/ties, not how you avoid them forever. The Duke ...
by NES
Wed Mar 18, 2009 10:32 pm
Forum: Elegant Living
Topic: Colours and elegance
Replies: 37
Views: 6251

In fact, my initial answer was based on the absolute distinction between colour coordination and colour matching . That said, the first rule of colour coordination should be: don't match anything . The exceptions would be: a) the pieces of a suit ; b) socks (with each other). The other rules wouldn'...