Search found 32 matches

by S. Gillette
Thu Jul 28, 2011 5:04 pm
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Shoes in Vienna
Replies: 6
Views: 1769

Re: Shoes in Vienna

Materna is now owned by one of his apprentices, Mr. Dellantonio. Mr. Materna is still in the shop and still making shoes, however. As has already been said, the price spectrum is generally quite large in vienna, starting at about 550,- and going up to about 4000,- The quality is not directly related...
by S. Gillette
Thu Apr 21, 2011 11:25 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Favourite cloth for odd trousers
Replies: 37
Views: 10251

Re: Favourite cloth for odd trousers

For the cold days of the year, I prefer flannel, especially Minnis 0300. From a distance, it gives the impression of a light grey cloth while up close, it proves to be a melange of white, black and mid grey. I can wear it with almost anything in my closet. For summer, I have come to really like Bate...
by S. Gillette
Mon Mar 21, 2011 8:54 am
Forum: The Structure of Style
Topic: Stylish, elegant, tasteful or bland?
Replies: 23
Views: 5061

Re: Stylish, elegant, tasteful or bland?

So, ideally, one would start one's dressing career with simple outfits in order to get the basics (cut, quality, cloth) right. Only after these tasks are mastered one would then move on to more complex combinations and introduce patterns and colour to one's outfits. That sounds logical, if perhaps ...
by S. Gillette
Fri Mar 18, 2011 7:29 am
Forum: The Structure of Style
Topic: Stylish, elegant, tasteful or bland?
Replies: 23
Views: 5061

Re: Stylish, elegant, tasteful or bland?

Scot, a very interesting topic! Thank you for that. I think whether or not one is better off to wear simple, unpatterned looks or heavily patterned, colorful ones comes down to who, where and how "sartorially enlightened" (I don't quite like that term but here it is really usable) one is. Wearing a ...
by S. Gillette
Thu Mar 10, 2011 1:51 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: My first bespoke Dinner Jacket
Replies: 38
Views: 6242

Re: My first bespoke Dinner Jacket

John,

how about polished corozo nut buttons for your dinner suit instead of covered or horn buttons? There are some lovely numbers with two holes out there. My tailor insists that these are "the real thing" — they seem to be so at least in Austria, where he lives and works.
by S. Gillette
Mon Nov 01, 2010 12:16 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Glorious Twelfth
Replies: 10
Views: 2142

Re: Glorious Twelfth

Also , the Glenhunt book by Bateman Ogden is a sturdy ,strong ,pleasure to work with cloth .. Having two jackets from this book, I must say that it is truly underrated in the internet community. Strangely enough, many tailors I have spoken to or used do recommend it. Some of BO's other offerings ar...
by S. Gillette
Thu Jun 03, 2010 4:38 pm
Forum: Elegant Living
Topic: A Taboo Subject
Replies: 29
Views: 4412

Re: A Taboo Subject

I always find a bit of dancing (standard and latin ballroom) to be very effective in order to stay in shape.
by S. Gillette
Tue Jun 01, 2010 11:36 am
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Caring for Linen Shirts
Replies: 9
Views: 1876

Re: Caring for Linen Shirts

My shirtmaker(esse) insists that linen is far less likely to cause any problems in handling and care than any other material. By linen, of course, she refers to what she calls "proper linen", which is handwoven or woven on slow commerical looms and of the best overall quality (in lack of full insigh...
by S. Gillette
Thu Apr 29, 2010 8:00 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Savile Row Tailors, Pricing and their House Style
Replies: 14
Views: 3720

Re: Savile Row Tailors, Pricing and their House Style

Welcome, Clemens! As far as my personal experience goes, I can say that most tailors will let you decide basically anytthing concerning your suit (it will be yours, after all), from the button and lining to the lapel shape, amount of padding, wadding and canvas and so forth if you ask for it. Howeve...
by S. Gillette
Sun Feb 28, 2010 7:11 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: "Tightness"
Replies: 57
Views: 11699

Re: "Tightness"

Costi, thank you for your answer and compliments on my clothes. Indeed, there are various ways a suit or jacket or trouser can look good and I consider myself lucky to be able to exchange here with people of so many different schools of thought. What one likes especially about his jacket cut may be ...
by S. Gillette
Sun Feb 28, 2010 4:37 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: "Tightness"
Replies: 57
Views: 11699

Re: "Tightness"

Costi, aren't you overinterpreting or misunderstanding a bit the original point made by Schneidergott? :wink: I think he didnt mean that a good jacket fit is determined by looking lifeless. I think we can all agree on the fact that we want clothes which are made expertly. What SG was trying to say i...
by S. Gillette
Wed Feb 10, 2010 6:57 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: The Rake: A Review
Replies: 31
Views: 8442

Re: The Rake: A Review

Boxing gear, anyone?
by S. Gillette
Sun Jan 31, 2010 5:08 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Greetings from Finland
Replies: 11
Views: 1633

Re: Greetings from Finland

signorlaine, congratulations, your first bespoke project looks like a real success! I can only attest to what has been said about traditional fabrics against the cold. While modern high-tech fabrics may be able to keep us equally warm, they lack the breathability of the "old stuff", resulting in a w...
by S. Gillette
Tue Jan 12, 2010 10:00 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: A bespoke tribute to Sergio Leone
Replies: 7
Views: 1345

Re: A bespoke tribute to Sergio Leone

Michael, apart from the fact that every single piece of clothing visible in this short sequence fits your body and (much underrated, I think) mind incredibly well and simply conveys quality in a quiet, very elegant way, I was especially fascinated by the texture and knot of your scarf. Is it silk? I...
by S. Gillette
Mon Dec 28, 2009 4:18 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: The Redcoats aren't coming!
Replies: 12
Views: 2257

Re: The Redcoats aren't coming!

Alden, thhis sounds like a good idea so make the all too boring choice of blazer fabrics a bit borader and richer. I could definitely imagine ordering a length of about two colors.

BTW, is there still a possibility to jump on the train for the summer flannel? I'd only need about 1.4 metres.