Search found 13 matches

by Cravate Noire
Mon Oct 31, 2011 3:43 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Number of Fittings
Replies: 82
Views: 11318

Re: Number of Fittings

If the stylist/fitter, tailor, and client is [ relatively ] constant, then the number of fittings is really a function of the cloth. - M Yes, that is also true, I believe. Some cloths are a dream to work and wear, while others are a nightmare (5+ fittings & going strong...) A friend who is a nightm...
by Cravate Noire
Wed Sep 28, 2011 5:55 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: The first serious step in bespoke
Replies: 37
Views: 7216

Re: The first serious step in bespoke

I have both and funnily enough the sleeves on my mtm shirts are ca.4cm longer than on my bespoke shirts.
Go figure...
by Cravate Noire
Mon Sep 26, 2011 1:31 am
Forum: Elegant Living
Topic: This is a pipe smoking zone
Replies: 95
Views: 23028

Re: This is a pipe smoking zone

Had to dig out that photo as I recently came back from Italy and friends there asked me where I left my pipa while we were sitting in bars (last time I took 2 or 3 pipes with me, so I was expected to produce a lot of smoke); obviously it fits in that thread. Just natural, non or very lightly perfume...
by Cravate Noire
Sun Sep 25, 2011 6:44 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Bespoke Spectacles
Replies: 28
Views: 5445

Re: Bespoke Spectacles

Being ultra short sighted with several defects bespoke glasses are pretty helpful. Here you can see LL member Sterling Gilette wearing a pair of mine (on the left) in a fun shot. As I never saw how anyone else looked in my bespoke frames as I am, as mentioned above really ultra short sighted, I was ...
by Cravate Noire
Wed Aug 24, 2011 1:44 am
Forum: The Sartorials
Topic: Old tailors, old cloth
Replies: 31
Views: 8476

Re: Old tailors, old cloth

Whether one's physique is difficult or not (someone extremely overweight will not look like Adonis just because he starts using a bespoke tailor, sure), a breast pocket with blunted edges for instance, is a thing of beautie (and of rarity). As long as it does not look like bitten by mice! But I can...
by Cravate Noire
Mon Aug 22, 2011 1:38 am
Forum: The Sartorials
Topic: Old tailors, old cloth
Replies: 31
Views: 8476

Re: Old tailors, old cloth

That you do not judge exact and super refined execution as the most important aspect of tailoring, or at least much less important than stylistically perfect balance etc. can be seen very well in some of your photos CN, You are trickier than a Philadelphia lawyer. I absolutely expect and receive "e...
by Cravate Noire
Sat Aug 20, 2011 9:33 am
Forum: The Sartorials
Topic: Old tailors, old cloth
Replies: 31
Views: 8476

Re: Old tailors, old cloth

It is just as difficult for tailors to work with thin superfines as it is for the weavers to manufacture them. However, this extra difficulty adds no value to the final product from the point of view of the customer. In other words, the tailor is not supposed to focus his energies on taming a diffi...
by Cravate Noire
Sat Aug 20, 2011 12:24 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Misshaped lapels
Replies: 31
Views: 6114

Re: Misshaped lapels

Hm, I think I have never seen more bespoke tailors starting mtm and rtw lines, many of them stylistically rather "offensive" in and around the Row as well as compromising quality.Saying they went the "rtw Route" in Naples because many suits they make are stylistically different seems somewhat unfai...
by Cravate Noire
Sat Aug 20, 2011 12:02 am
Forum: The Sartorials
Topic: Old tailors, old cloth
Replies: 31
Views: 8476

Re: Old tailors, old cloth

I love old cloth too, however it often usually disguises the inacbility of most tailors to draft a perfect pattern (these who actually need a fitting or several to get the fit right, not to give the client a chance to see if he wants stylistic changes). It falls much nicer and therefore the suits lo...
by Cravate Noire
Thu Aug 18, 2011 11:05 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Misshaped lapels
Replies: 31
Views: 6114

Re: Misshaped lapels

Savile Row has been booming making the same classic clothes they always made. Hm, I think I have never seen more bespoke tailors starting mtm and rtw lines, many of them stylistically rather "offensive" in and around the Row as well as compromising quality. Saying they went the "rtw Route" in Naple...
by Cravate Noire
Tue Aug 16, 2011 4:46 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Misshaped lapels
Replies: 31
Views: 6114

Re: Misshaped lapels

I would like to see Neapolitan style move back to the more elegant look from its past. If we let this wave pass, maybe the tailors will return to their roots someday. Personally, I find this to be entirely a subject of personal preference, at least within limits. However, if the Neapolitan tailors ...
by Cravate Noire
Mon Aug 15, 2011 11:10 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Misshaped lapels
Replies: 31
Views: 6114

Re: Misshaped lapels

You don't like it, the Napoli stuff (and its smoothened high end derivates), eh? :lol: I hope I'm not considered schizophrenic because I have bespoke items that would fit perfectly your "pattern" ( no pun intended) and others that would make up beautiful props for more this and that is off here thre...
by Cravate Noire
Tue Dec 07, 2010 7:11 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Bespoke Overcoat
Replies: 62
Views: 15367

Re: Bespoke Overcoat

My first bespoke overcoat order is kind of epic as the number of fittings is concerned, just had the 5th oe 6th, dont remember it exatcly, first one was a muslin fitting. He even made some light shoulders pads (wads) just to try (we skipped them for a very thin layer of Horsehair) and an a muslin sl...