The London Lounge

I do not micro-manage my tailors. The issues I've exposed online do not have to do with mistakes, but blatant dishonesty. Some of the artisans I've come out against are the very same ones I previously strongly advocated for. The general lesson I've learned is that one man shops are riskier. You migh...

Forgive my poor terminology. You are correct, they use a wool interlining.

Depending on the silk, both Rubinacci and Cappelli often elect to use no interlining at all in my seven-folds. I ask them to use their own judgment.

I'll be in Paris from November 4 through November 6 to get fitted at Charvet (they took my measurements almost a year ago). I've scheduled two fittings, to ensure they get the muslin as close to right as possible. I believe my shirtmaker is Katherine. The front person working with me is Natalie. Any...

Marinella does make fantastic bespoke ties, but the ones they made for me are very different from the sort I get from Rubinacci and Cappelli. The latter two default to hand-rolled edges and little or no interlining. In contrast, my Marinella's are all lined and include fairly thick canvas interlinin...

Any frank critiques? Want to improve any way possible.

gegarrenton wrote:<facepalm>

Don't like?

New bespoke Cleverley balmorals, just received: http://www.styleforum.net/content/type/61/id/1157154/ http://www.styleforum.net/content/type/61/id/1157156/ http://www.styleforum.net/content/type/61/id/1157157/ http://www.styleforum.net/content/type/61/id/1157158/ http://www.styleforum.net/content/ty...

I'm still not understanding how undoing the outside button has any benefit when sitting. The internal button keeps the jacket as tight as ever. Plus, as I pointed out earlier, it leaves the front free to flap about. That photo of Prince Charles doesn't really commend the practice. It just looks like...

I would advise against a cummerbund with a DB DJ. A trick that works for me when I'm wearing DB jackets with no vents at dinner is to undo the outside button and keep the interior button fastened. You'll see that It opens up nicely and you're not showing the meeting of trousers and shirt to anybody...

I have a shawl lapel DB dinner suit in midnight Smith's mohair blend. I asked for black contrasting lapel facings, but my tailor refused and insisted on finding blue grosgrain that would match. Something about black facings on midnight being for singers. I went ventless, but would get vents if I cou...

Concordia wrote:In case I want to have my own stupid discussion with a sales clerk, what model is this?

Flemming wallet, in Laurier green.

Here are the results, in case anyone's interested: http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/mafoofan/titc/071611/hermes1s.jpg http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/mafoofan/titc/071611/hermes2s.jpg http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/mafoofan/titc/071611/hermes3s.jpg http://i22.photobucket.com/alb...

Is there a traditionally correct place to have one's initals monogrammed on a breast wallet? The wallet in question is dark green leather. My thoughts are to put the initials on the outside, bottom righthand corner, or inside, also bottom righthand corner.

Also, simple embossing, or gold leaf?

Well, after 2 years away, I'm returning to Naples next week. Can anyone give some guidance as to shirtmakers? I've been a Matuozzo client, but am curious about what else is out there. The only others I know of are Piccolo, Merolla, and L'Ero, though I know very little about them. I'd like to avoid s...

I like soft. Sure, I think it has as much to do with the feel as the look--but you look better when when you feel good. Anyway, here is a soft shoulder example for your consideration: http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/mafoofan/mafoofan121810s.jpg I don't think I'd look as good if the shoulders ...