The London Lounge

Never mind the shoulder, the facings on that Rubinacci suit make me want to cry. And not in a good way.

Interesting. Thanks for your feedback, ay329. I wonder if jefferyd would agree. Fwiw though, I like the look of OD/OT's shoulders. Could you guys post pics of shoulders you prefer? We shouldn't take the shoulder out of the context of the greater picture- there is nothing particularly wrong with tha...

I am going to disagree with the approval of OD/OT's choice of shoulder as I think that he generally looks bottom-heavy and pear-shaped and a bit more shoulder might might balance the look a little better. Not to say that this wouldn't look acceptable on someone else with different proportions. Sorry.

Will's jacket doesnt meet jeffrey's standard but it looks like its not the tailor's fault, but as if the wearer put on a few pounds in the midsection after the garment was made In the photo, Will is not standing in neutral spine- one foot is slightly forward of the other. His weight is carried more...

A balanced garment should be plumb- the grain should run straight up and down on both sides. Two rather extreme examples to illustrate the importance of this principle. http://www.james-sherwood.com/images/exhibitions/tokyo_500h/07.jpg http://www.james-sherwood.com/images/exhibitions/tokyo_500h/23.j...

The shape of the fronts is like the shape and width of the lapel- it is a stylistic choice and is totally separate from fit. A garment should be balanced and plumb; the shape of the front can then be cut as straight or as open as one wants.

alden wrote:

300px-Weeping-willow-i.jpg

Sometimes a wee bit of structure is needed to spruce things up.

Thank you.

I just blew coffee through my nose.

I saw a light, loose weave Breanish tweed 3 pc suit made by AS on a noted UK fashion writer (who is supposed to be a dandy and know better) and it looked like a chocolate sundae melting on him, or cobwebs blowing in the wind amidst the spars of some lost, battered and grounded ship. In other words,...

Actually the A&S wasn't in a flannel at all but a high-twist clear-finish worsted of some sort with a nice hand to it. It was my silly idea to make a drape suit in a flannel and the results were dreadful.

Regarding the sleeves, how do you think this jacket would have turned out if you had no lining in them? I've been considering a wool/linen blend from the Harrison's Mersolair book and was thinking of no sleeve lining for more breathability. Thank you. It can certainly be done without lining in the ...

Thank you. I normally only make softer-constructed coats out of fluid cloth and my personal feeling is that English flannel may be a bit firm for that kind of style. But I could be wrong- that is an opinion on matters of style and not a technical perspective, and I make no claims to stylishness or g...

Put them back together? God no. It takes so much time to open them, photograph them, edit the photos, upload the photos, write out the post.... They get filed away for future reference, though, so for me, they are valuable learning tools. If someone else can also learn something at the same time, al...

I had my hands on a Huntsman suit that was made from something really great but I don't know where it came from. Maybe someone will recognize the selvedge http://flic.kr/p/7pNygo

Guilty.

I recently made myself a suit out of the Dorchester and was a little underwhelmed by it.

Crappy photo can be found here http://www.flickr.com/photos/21977945@N02/4715349185/