The London Lounge

I agree with Mr. Seitelman's high opinion of Alan Flusser and can also confirm his comments about Raphael and Phillip Ferrante. Alan's name on the door matters and he is much more than a name on the door. That in itself is not sufficient, however. Most of the soul of the bespoke business is the peop...

The issue will be who is doing the tailoring. The Flusser tailors have come and gone for various reasons, I believe. Alan is a talent but not a tailor. Consistent quality comes from having a top talent tailor who builds/maintains/trains a top team.

I pose a question that departs a bit from the thread thus far. While going through a Harrison Moonbeam cloth book I was taken by the black with subtle hounds-tooth pattern--one of the traditional stroller cloth patterns though in a softer texture. It seemed to me this would work well with grey trous...

What is a flared vent?

The statistic I have seen, and which squares with my business experience having looked at retail and manufacturing businesses, is that the cost of direct labor and materials and manufacturing overhead for tailored women's clothing is usually no more than 15% of the list retail price. It's probably a...

As long as the waistcoat covers the top of the trousers, shorter is usually better. Waistcoats are frequently cut too long, and with an opening at too sharp an angle and points that are too short--at least to my taste. I ask for the bottom of the sides to be just over the hip bone to allow for a bit...

The art of waistcoat making seems to by something of a dying art, and waistcoats even from the top tailors tend to vary a lot so I would be try to be very, very specific about what you want or you risk disappointment. It is best to have a picture. It sounds like you want long points, which in my opi...

Many thanks for the replies. I still don’t quite get it. Subtle points make a lot of difference, which is why many of us become bespoke customers. Old Henry’s point that shirt fronts must not be visible below the button point is an absolute and a given. If the trouser sits properly on the natural wa...

Two things I have admired about the LL Sartoria cut are the high gorge/wide notch and the fairly straight and moderately open quarters, the latter of which makes for a nice X as distinct from a closed quarters Y or the back-to-back Cs which to my eye are less appealing. From the various photos of Mi...

Thanks to Michael for the interview with John Hitchcock just posted on dresswithstyle.com. Mr. Hitchcock refers to "side bodies" as a device to add further shape to a coat. Would someone explain what side bodies are, and the alternative methods for adding shape to a coat? I have also heard the term ...

I am struggling to understand the comments. I was attracted to this cloth immediately and just obtained a grey herringbone sportcoat in the fabric with which I am very pleased. The coat has a ticket pocket and raised edges to give it a bit of informality. As stated by Mr. Alden in his comments, the ...

I add my admiration for some wonderful stuff. It has inspired me to order something from Steed this spring, after I get back to my normal weight. I am particularly anxious to see Vox' final 3-piece with DB vest. I was struck by the comparison between the forward fitting picture and the finished pict...

I ordered a coat in Ireland and was not very pleased. That coat, and all the others from Magee I have seen, have very high, flat shoulders, and sleeves that pitch sharply down. I suspect what you have been offered is an old product, so my experience may not be reflective of what the firm produced so...

I note the cited view that if a SB coat with notch lapels is worn with a DB waistcoat, the waistcoat should have shawl lapels (or perhaps no lapels), and that a DB waistcoat with peak lapels is properly worn only with a SB coat with peak lapels. I don't understand the logic however. The waistcoat is...