The London Lounge

Yes, Tom, I cut that suit. Sadly, by the time Mr Alden took that photograph the trouser creases had begun to assert their authority. It was a most enjoyable day- I found Mr Alden's company delightful and yes, he knows his stuff. I very much look forward to my next visit to Paris and seeing him again...

Gentlemen, I have just posted a new article on English Cut, "Straight or Crooked". http://www.englishcut.com/archives/000072.html Basically the fit of a straight coat has less material forward of the neck point on the front edge. This gives the jacket a slimmer feel, showing more shirt, especially o...

Thank you, Andrey, I just sent you an e-mail.

Gentlemen- Perhaps somebody here can help me... As readers of English Cut will know, I take regular business visits to New York, every three months: http://www.englishcut.com/archives/000042.html I am also now starting to take regular trips to Paris, with the same, basic Modus Operandi. My next one ...

Jan, I learned basic anatomy at college; which is part of the apprenticeship. A pattern is a two dimensional object. The client's body is a three dimensional object. Turning two dimensions seamslessly into three; that's what it's all about. Deformities: I learned a little bit in college, but most of...

There are no tailors that I know of on the Row that both cut and make (sew) for their customers. It's just not commercially viable. A few old tailors might still be doing it in the provinces, but I don't know of any. It usually takes 4 tailors to make a coat. 1. The Cutter. The fellow who measures t...

Well, like you said, their weight is low, they are breathable and they hold their shape well when made into unlined coats. You answered your own question. Like I said, there is no magic formula. Every cloth you choose will involve compromise- in cost, durability, comfort, style, in warmth or lack of...

Thank you, Chuck, Well, I haven't seen or touched the cloth you mentioned first hand, but from how you describe it- it sounds light because of its weave, and it sound breathable because of its organic cashmere/silk fibres. And, since you live in Dallas, I imagine your suits are lightly built (i.e. l...

Thank you Chuck. Yes, I'll take you up on that drink one day. Michael, as promised here is my answer to your question. I also posted it in your "Articles" section: The truth is, there is no magic, secret formula for making coats for warm weather and climates. It's just common sense, with three main ...

Thank you for the kind welcome, Gentlemen.

I am writing a reply to your question now. I shall wait till Tuesday before posting it, as there's one or two cloth merchants I want to speak to first... cloth merchants always have a few interesting little tidbits on this subject.