Search found 15 matches

by jpontin
Mon Sep 08, 2008 3:43 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Minnis Rangoon?
Replies: 16
Views: 4718

I have a light-weight, very dark blue summer weight blue suit in Rangoon from Anderson and Sheppard. Ordered an extra pair of trousers with it, thankfully. It's by far my most-traveled, hardest-wearing suit. I've taken it to India and China many times and worn it in the hottest North-East weather a...
by jpontin
Mon Aug 25, 2008 10:52 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Minnis Rangoon?
Replies: 16
Views: 4718

I have a light-weight, very dark blue summer weight blue suit in Rangoon from Anderson and Sheppard. Ordered an extra pair of trousers with it, thankfully. It's by far my most-traveled, hardest-wearing suit. I've taken it to India and China many times and worn it in the hottest North-East weather an...
by jpontin
Thu Jun 26, 2008 11:34 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Hall Brothers
Replies: 6
Views: 2314

I had some white flannels made at Halls Brothers when I was at college in the 80s. They still look lovely; Halls were wonderful tailors.

However, I think they have gone out of business.
by jpontin
Mon Dec 10, 2007 3:29 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Rayner and Sturges
Replies: 8
Views: 3404

Well, a word of caution might be in order...

Thomas Mahon recommended this shirt maker to me--and based on his good reputation I ordered about 6 shirts. I was very displeased. I saved some money compared to T&A, who ordinarily makes my shirts. But the finish was poor, the details were sub-standard, and fit (despite my asking for a number of ch...
by jpontin
Sat Nov 17, 2007 6:16 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: DB navy blazer
Replies: 6
Views: 3351

DB Blazer

Traditionally, in Britain, the kind of double-breasted blazer with regimental buttons that an officer would wear in summer, would not have vents. Almost all RTW blazers now have two vents, however.
by jpontin
Fri Nov 09, 2007 3:29 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Guard's coat
Replies: 2
Views: 1765

A Guards Coat is Grey

It pains me to contradict Etutee in anything, but a guards coat is by definition of grey. The winter coats of the Brigade of Guards are a beautiful dove grey, cut in the manner described below. If a Guards officer--a Guardee--wore a civilian version of the coat (or possibly the coat itself while oth...
by jpontin
Fri Sep 07, 2007 4:54 pm
Forum: Elegant Living
Topic: A Berlin Hotel?
Replies: 5
Views: 2473

I found something in the end!

The Schlosshotel im Grunewald.

http://www.schlosshotelberlin.com/english/history.html

It's a small hotel, restored from the old Palais Pannwitz, with an old-fashioned 18th century feel to it.
by jpontin
Sun Aug 26, 2007 1:16 am
Forum: Elegant Living
Topic: A Berlin Hotel?
Replies: 5
Views: 2473

A Berlin Hotel?

I want the equivalent, in Berlin, of Claridges, in London. A hotel that is grand, old-fashioned, and fine--but whose service is intime and whose public rooms do not (like some grand hotels) remind one of a railway station.
by jpontin
Wed Jul 18, 2007 8:01 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Pith Helmets
Replies: 7
Views: 3696

Lock on St. James in London would make you a pith helmet--or you can purchase one RTW. When would you wear such a thing, however?!
by jpontin
Mon Apr 30, 2007 7:41 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Cuffs?/No Cuffs?
Replies: 8
Views: 3952

They seem a little vulgarly showy to me; unnecessary, ugly, and pretentious.
by jpontin
Thu Apr 19, 2007 6:04 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Covert coat over a suit
Replies: 26
Views: 11879

I agree with Percy that the covert coat is something one might wear in an informal setting in the city, but not, until recent decades, in the City. And II like his suggestion that the gentleman in the illustration is about to go for a walk in the park--although I suppose I question whether he would ...
by jpontin
Wed Apr 18, 2007 9:16 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Covert coat over a suit
Replies: 26
Views: 11879

I think the point is that the covert coat, which was originally associated with the country, and then subsequently with the racetrack, became an acceptable style of informal wear in the City by the 1930s. (Indeed, see Tutee's wonderful illustrations.) It is still a racy, somewhat rakish look--and no...
by jpontin
Wed Apr 18, 2007 5:06 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Mahon / Rayner & Sturges bespoke shirts
Replies: 6
Views: 3403

I reject the excuse that TM "probably forgot to tick the box for a slim fit before sending the order to R&S." After all, he measured my chest and torso. The fit should have reflected that. Yet what I received would have bloused-out on Orson Welles. My T&A shirts fit; my other bespoke shirts fit. I t...
by jpontin
Tue Apr 17, 2007 8:56 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Covert coat over a suit
Replies: 26
Views: 11879

Of course.
by jpontin
Mon Apr 16, 2007 4:45 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Mahon / Rayner & Sturges bespoke shirts
Replies: 6
Views: 3403

Rayner and Sturgess

I had six made: two in blue, two in cream, two in white, and one Bengal Stripe, and one pink. Overeall, the experience was mixed. I very much like the design of the collar I chose, which Thomas Mahon somewhat risibly calls "Savile Row." The collar manages to be both very soft and high simultaneously...