The London Lounge

Carmina Simpson is quite narrow.

andy57 wrote:Interesting. I have to disagree about the single stud, but I think reasonable gentlemen can do that. Are the collars made (or sold) by D'Arcy also problematic?

That's the first shop I bought sample collars from. Yes, they look exactly like the Grafton collar I showed above, unfortunately.

I'm working with Budd on this. The plan is for the bib to have one visible stud and possibly a custom collar pattern. That sounds interesting and unusual. Further to your comment just above, what's your thinking behind this configuration? One visible stud has always looked more elegant to me for a ...

I disagree with the comment regarding the waist suppression. Body coat or not - it should not be confused with costume. I very much like the subtle drape your coat shows. And since a tailcoat should not be denied the fun of dancing, being "strapped" into it leans towards the wrong direction. I disa...

andy57 wrote:In that case, I would absolutely go with peak lapels. Incidentally, from where did you obtain your shirt and collar?

I'm working with Budd on this. The plan is for the bib to have one visible stud and possibly a custom collar pattern.

I think a shawl collar dinner jacket is a good look, especially for jackets that are not black. It seems to promote a more relaxed demeanor. Interesting that you mentioned that. I actually want to wear my dinner jacket with a stiff front shirt and detachable collar. That's another consideration tha...

David, it's a terrific ensemble. It would be even better though, if you have the tailor add significantly more waist suppression, both on the sides and in the small of the back. In my view, that's what body coats are all about. But it's a matter of taste. Congratulations!

Wrinkles, any particular reason you picked peak lapel over shawl? Thanks! I see too many shawl lapels these days among the sartorially astute. I prefer to not do what everyone does. https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/f6/30/cd/f630cd5b365faf89f6a3555bdb4c491e.jpg http://steed.co.uk/wp-co...

Noble Savage wrote:Doesn't look like a true turn back cuff, just a seamed cuff standing in for an 18th century turned back cuff.

Do you think it's an extra layer of fabric on top of a full length sleeve, or a detached cuff sewn on to a truncated sleeve?

In the film Kind Hearts and Coronets, all of the coats worn by Louis Massini share the same signature turn-back sleeve cuff. Unlike a modern "gauntlet cuff", this cuff is turned back over the entire circumference of the sleeve, and the buttonholes are cut right through it. https://3xx5bq-dm2305.file...

The artist had to exaggerate the size of the herringbone, otherwise, it would not be visible as a herringbone It might not be an exaggeration on the artist's part. Here's an actual large herringbone suit from the 1939 flick "Golden Boy", very similar to the illustrations from earlier in this thread...

In old Apparel Arts/Esquire illustrations, I've often seen suits in large herringbone weaves, such as the one below. These days, it seems that herringbones of this size are only available in some tweeds and coatings. Back in the days, would these also be tweeds, or were there worsteds also? https://...

Thanks for sharing your experience, ROT! Does your shirt bib not have a way to secure it at the bottom and the sides, as hectrom's shirt does?

Wow, this is a lovely jacket! What is the fabric of the trousers? I have seen similar at Molloy and Sons and at Holland and Sherry. Thanks. The trousers are made of the 14 once Fox houndstooth flannel, A0053/11: http://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/prod/918/flannel/370g-classic-houndstooth-fox-flannelfl...

The stiff piqué bib is sewn (or attached, in the case of detachable/disposable bibs) to the shirt, so as long as the shirt behaves..... I have an old formal shirt by Bud that -at the bottom of the bib- has a short tab that latches to a button on the inside of the waistband of my dinner trousers. Th...