Search found 34 matches

by Martin Stall
Mon Dec 03, 2007 12:08 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: New Member
Replies: 24
Views: 8725

Welcome Kate! Be sure to keep us up to date on how things go with you, ok? And as for us men&dealing with professionally: if you're as charming as from your writing you would seem to be , you'll have no problem.
by Martin Stall
Sun Dec 02, 2007 11:39 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Mr Thomas Mahon
Replies: 4
Views: 2968

I quite agree. I've seen Tom at work, I've seen his stuff, and as a tailor I can only say he's very much worth his salt.
by Martin Stall
Fri Oct 26, 2007 7:02 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Books on suit fabric Quality
Replies: 13
Views: 4772

Well, no one's ever pulled that trick on me, but whenever somebody asks, I have no problem demonstrating the pureness of a cloth by burning a snippet. All you need a piece the size of, say, a match.
by Martin Stall
Thu Oct 18, 2007 3:06 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Books on suit fabric Quality
Replies: 13
Views: 4772

Thank you for your wonderful wool testing tip, SchneiderGott,. I wonder, Sir, if there is a similar test for pure cotton, because there seem to be too many clothiers offering what they claim is pure cotton material, but whose plasticity or departure from the touch that traditional cotton has makes ...
by Martin Stall
Tue Oct 09, 2007 8:37 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Looking Before I Leap: Questions for "My" Tailor
Replies: 19
Views: 7955

That seems like a very fair and relevant list of questions to me. I'm always happy when a prospective customer has this much interest in, and knowledge of, the work he wants from me.
by Martin Stall
Fri Jul 20, 2007 7:04 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Back of a Waistcoat
Replies: 14
Views: 6266

Usually, cloth will always be dearer than lining. (exception could be a fairly cheap cloth with a pure silk lining, but that would be an odd combination anyway) However, with a bit of clever laying of the pattern, a cloth back doesn't have to cost that much more, and it's not unthinkable that a tail...
by Martin Stall
Mon Jul 09, 2007 9:56 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: range of movement
Replies: 6
Views: 2954

Both of you are right IMHO. The smaller the armhole, the less the sleeve will tend to lift up the body of the coat when moving one's arms. As you can see in the picture this is why the collar and the shoulders stay nicely snug on the body. Sometimes people are seen on tv, sitting at a table or desk ...
by Martin Stall
Wed Jul 04, 2007 12:22 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Back of a Waistcoat
Replies: 14
Views: 6266

Chris Rimby wrote:I don't like the look of shiny silk on anything except a tie.
Understood. But, uhm, do you wear dinner jackets? :wink:
by Martin Stall
Tue Jul 03, 2007 12:24 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Back of a Waistcoat
Replies: 14
Views: 6266

Usually, the back is indeed made of lining. Did the tailor tell you why he advised a cloth back?

As for your preference Chris, would you care to tell us why?
by Martin Stall
Sat Jun 23, 2007 9:42 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Morning coat pattern?
Replies: 1
Views: 1588

Hi, and welcome Actually, it isn't so strange that you can't find a pattern on the web: Such things are the result of generations of study and development, hence a pattern is worth a lot of money, and even more so because one who knows how to use it can use it to make a lot of money. So it kind of m...
by Martin Stall
Wed Feb 21, 2007 10:00 am
Forum: Elegant Living
Topic: Gin
Replies: 32
Views: 18139

Bombay Saphire for me as well.
by Martin Stall
Tue Feb 20, 2007 6:40 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Pinstripes
Replies: 2
Views: 1856

my view is that you should aim for symmetry on either side but not necessarily a match. if you sacrifice a good fit to achieve a good match you have lost more than you have gained. Nicely put. Forget about matching stripes over the shoulder. I may work out that way sometimes, depending on the patte...
by Martin Stall
Mon Feb 12, 2007 11:51 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Oxxford.
Replies: 40
Views: 15960

Iammatt, Indeed, this is big part of what set me off on this mission, to establish for myself, what are the important elements to be done by hand, what is good hand work, can I learn to spot it easily and what can be done better by machine. They're the two big questions aren't they. :!: 1. What ele...
by Martin Stall
Sat Feb 10, 2007 5:41 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Oxxford.
Replies: 40
Views: 15960

Why are they padding so far behind te roll of the lapel anyway? I mean, pad stitching just cannot be done invisibly, so that area ought to be left untouched, I was taught, precisely for the reasons being discussed here. ??? I always wondered that as well. Sometimes it is obviously outside the roll,...
by Martin Stall
Sat Feb 10, 2007 5:31 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Oxxford.
Replies: 40
Views: 15960

A few people have commented on the pick marks on the back side of an Oxxford lapel in a negative sense, but if the roll is beautifully executed, I can't see the harm. I have only one Oxxford, in a slightly thick brown cashmere and even under a loop, no marks are visible. . Well the back of the lape...