The London Lounge

Welcome Kate! Be sure to keep us up to date on how things go with you, ok? And as for us men&dealing with professionally: if you're as charming as from your writing you would seem to be , you'll have no problem.

I quite agree. I've seen Tom at work, I've seen his stuff, and as a tailor I can only say he's very much worth his salt.

Well, no one's ever pulled that trick on me, but whenever somebody asks, I have no problem demonstrating the pureness of a cloth by burning a snippet. All you need a piece the size of, say, a match.

Thank you for your wonderful wool testing tip, SchneiderGott,. I wonder, Sir, if there is a similar test for pure cotton, because there seem to be too many clothiers offering what they claim is pure cotton material, but whose plasticity or departure from the touch that traditional cotton has makes ...

That seems like a very fair and relevant list of questions to me. I'm always happy when a prospective customer has this much interest in, and knowledge of, the work he wants from me.

Usually, cloth will always be dearer than lining. (exception could be a fairly cheap cloth with a pure silk lining, but that would be an odd combination anyway) However, with a bit of clever laying of the pattern, a cloth back doesn't have to cost that much more, and it's not unthinkable that a tail...

Both of you are right IMHO. The smaller the armhole, the less the sleeve will tend to lift up the body of the coat when moving one's arms. As you can see in the picture this is why the collar and the shoulders stay nicely snug on the body. Sometimes people are seen on tv, sitting at a table or desk ...

Chris Rimby wrote:I don't like the look of shiny silk on anything except a tie.

Understood. But, uhm, do you wear dinner jackets?

Usually, the back is indeed made of lining. Did the tailor tell you why he advised a cloth back?

As for your preference Chris, would you care to tell us why?

Hi, and welcome Actually, it isn't so strange that you can't find a pattern on the web: Such things are the result of generations of study and development, hence a pattern is worth a lot of money, and even more so because one who knows how to use it can use it to make a lot of money. So it kind of m...

Bombay Saphire for me as well.

my view is that you should aim for symmetry on either side but not necessarily a match. if you sacrifice a good fit to achieve a good match you have lost more than you have gained. Nicely put. Forget about matching stripes over the shoulder. I may work out that way sometimes, depending on the patte...

Iammatt, Indeed, this is big part of what set me off on this mission, to establish for myself, what are the important elements to be done by hand, what is good hand work, can I learn to spot it easily and what can be done better by machine. They're the two big questions aren't they. :!: 1. What ele...

Why are they padding so far behind te roll of the lapel anyway? I mean, pad stitching just cannot be done invisibly, so that area ought to be left untouched, I was taught, precisely for the reasons being discussed here. ??? I always wondered that as well. Sometimes it is obviously outside the roll,...

A few people have commented on the pick marks on the back side of an Oxxford lapel in a negative sense, but if the roll is beautifully executed, I can't see the harm. I have only one Oxxford, in a slightly thick brown cashmere and even under a loop, no marks are visible. . Well the back of the lape...