Search found 175 matches

by bengal-stripe
Wed Feb 08, 2017 8:41 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Slippers
Replies: 2
Views: 530

Re: Slippers

Arthur Sleep does offer a wide range of slippers in unusual colours and materials, not only that standard boring stuff: https://arthursleepers.co.uk/store/men/ If you want to design (and maybe even make) your own tapestry slippers, get in touch with Broadland Slippers , they will make you a pair fr...
by bengal-stripe
Sat May 16, 2015 1:22 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Bench Made Shoes
Replies: 19
Views: 2209

Re: Bench Made Shoes

Well, I know for certain, a few years back C&J used Kokos, but that might have changed. Back then, Kokos was probably the only shoe repair firm in London that would mount recessed metal toe pieces ("Lulus").
by bengal-stripe
Fri May 15, 2015 6:57 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Bench Made Shoes
Replies: 19
Views: 2209

Re: Bench Made Shoes

The work was done by an independent cobbler in Finchley Road.......I never asked the exact address, as at C&J's they are kind enough to pass also some of my non-C&J shoes on to him for repairs. I think you are talking about this firm (not on Finchley Road, but in East Finchley): http://www.kokos.co...
by bengal-stripe
Sat May 09, 2015 11:54 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: How to Sew on a Button
Replies: 2
Views: 642

Re: How to Sew on a Button

Most buttons are stitched-on by machine, so the cotton thread can either be parallel or crosswise. If a button on your Dockers has come off, just copy the way the other buttons have been done. If the buttons are stitched on by hand, you also have the choice of a "crow's foot" pattern (quite popular ...
by bengal-stripe
Wed Aug 20, 2014 9:31 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Berluti
Replies: 6
Views: 896

Re: Berluti

I tried getting an appointment with Delos but got the run around. Apparently they are quite protective of him. I heard it took Hugo Jacomet quite a while to convince Berluti to get the interview with Parisian Gentlemen. It might be the other way round, Berluti (LVMH) is not protective of Delos, but...
by bengal-stripe
Tue Dec 04, 2012 6:50 pm
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Placket front vs plain front
Replies: 19
Views: 1908

Re: Placket front vs plain front

Isn't the placket front standard for most Jermyn Street shirtmakers? It certainly is the standard for English day-shirts. You probably won't find a single ready-to-wear shirt with a plain front on Jermyn Street. The shirt with the plain front is far more popular in France and Italy. In Jermyn Stree...
by bengal-stripe
Wed Nov 28, 2012 2:04 pm
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Mystery cloth outerwear
Replies: 35
Views: 2751

Re: Mystery cloth outerwear

My vote is for alpaca pile. It's usually llama or alpaca pile, but it could be any other wool. Don't think of a conventional woven cloth, but see it more as a tufted carpet. On one side there is the luscious pile, on the other side there is a mesh where the wool got tufted into. I believe, that mes...
by bengal-stripe
Tue Nov 27, 2012 11:46 pm
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Ballantyne
Replies: 35
Views: 3352

Re: Ballantyne

Berk in London's Burlington Arcade has a quite large selection of classic, Scottish-made Ballantyne sweaters:

http://www.berkcashmere.co.uk/category. ... sting&id=9

But the prices are another thing! A plain 2-ply sweater does retail at GBP 500.

Rolf
by bengal-stripe
Fri Aug 31, 2012 10:48 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Anthony Delos sells out to LVMH
Replies: 2
Views: 482

Anthony Delos sells out to LVMH

Apparently, it’s the hot news on the French shoe forums, Anthony Delos has sold his firm to LVMH (owners of Berluti). His workshop will be owned by LVMH and Delos and his staff will be on the conglomerate’s payroll. I have no idea, whether LVMH wants to promote the name Delos as a bespoke maker (and...
by bengal-stripe
Fri Aug 31, 2012 9:44 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Bespoke shoes in Warsaw - Januszkiewicz
Replies: 38
Views: 5196

Re: Bespoke shoes in Warsaw - Januszkiewicz

......regarding the second row of stitches parallel to the upper broguing next to the laces on the inside of the right shoe? It shows clearly in the first and the third pictures and I thought they shouldn't be there. It could be something done on purpose (it's impossible to see it on the left shoe)...
by bengal-stripe
Sun Aug 21, 2011 4:59 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Fair Isle Sweater
Replies: 5
Views: 1906

Re: Fair Isle Sweater

Manself wrote:Does anyone know who painted this portrait of the Duke of Windsor......
The portrait was painted by John St Helier Lander in 1925.

http://www.guernsey-society.org.uk/donk ... ier_Lander
by bengal-stripe
Sat Jul 16, 2011 11:58 pm
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Ideal Cap Toe Seam, How Far From the Toe?
Replies: 7
Views: 1452

Re: Ideal Cap Toe Seam, How Far From the Toe?

arkirshner wrote: BTW could you refer me to the source of the illustration as it no doubt will answer all my similar inquiries.
The illustration was taken from “Pattern Cutting”,

http://www.noblefootwear.com/Books%20Fo ... /book1.htm

published by Noble Footwear (Frank Jones)
by bengal-stripe
Tue Jul 05, 2011 2:54 pm
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: Ideal Cap Toe Seam, How Far From the Toe?
Replies: 7
Views: 1452

Re: Ideal Cap Toe Seam, How Far From the Toe?

As a rule of thumb, the toe cap is 2/3 of the distance between ‘vamp point‘(V) and ‘toe point’ (T). http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/bengal-stripe/technical/Toecap.jpg More than any other feature in shoe design, the vamp point is determined by fashion. Up to the 70s the ideal was a low vamp po...
by bengal-stripe
Sat Dec 25, 2010 10:26 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Steel toe guards
Replies: 4
Views: 1600

Re: Steel toe guards

Götz (or Götz-Service) in Göppingen/Swabia is probably the largest ’grindery’ (shoe components supplier) in the world. http://www.goetz-service.com/web/home.php?lang=us&nr=2&cartid=355013177556631304199184 Load down their catalogue and go to page 200, there you’ll find toe and heel irons. The ’Trium...
by bengal-stripe
Thu Nov 11, 2010 10:25 pm
Forum: Your Questions and Answers
Topic: edward green last question
Replies: 2
Views: 1248

Re: edward green last question

My guess would be, the ‘stick length’ of last 82 is about ½ size (4mm) longer than last 202. (Stick length, named after the measuring stick, is the overall length of a last, which quite frequently diverts from the size, although, in theory, the size should be the same as the total length of the last...