Search found 17 matches

by Sartorius_2
Thu Jul 06, 2017 8:22 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Lightweight single breasted
Replies: 17
Views: 2475

Re: Lightweight single breasted

Thanks David. Neapolitan cut, yes, but Rubunacci's price for a sports jacket is 20 - 25% higher than the other makers I've been looking at (for no discernable reason other than brand).
by Sartorius_2
Wed Jul 05, 2017 2:22 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Lightweight single breasted
Replies: 17
Views: 2475

Re: Lightweight single breasted

Thanks all for comments. Am not a great fan of the Rubinacci cut, and they are also expensive. It was also my understanding that Rubinacci's London outfit does not actually offer full bespoke (at least not in the same way as you will get if you travel to their Italian HQ). On the suggestions about u...
by Sartorius_2
Wed Jun 28, 2017 12:56 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Lightweight single breasted
Replies: 17
Views: 2475

Re: Lightweight single breasted

Does anyone have any experience with Elia Caliendo?
by Sartorius_2
Mon May 22, 2017 9:53 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Lightweight single breasted
Replies: 17
Views: 2475

Lightweight single breasted

I am considering a lightweight single breasted sports jacket for summer. I have a linen suit from a SR tailor, but it wears very warm (even in the English summer) and so I am looking at Italian makers as an alternative. I would go full bespoke, probably in an unlined hopsack. Who would members recom...
by Sartorius_2
Mon Feb 20, 2017 10:25 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: On online reviews of artisans
Replies: 51
Views: 4373

Re: On online reviews of artisans

The Permanent Style site is excellent. You may or may not agree with Simon Crompton's style choices but the site itself is a great resource - as others have said, backed up with photos and a wealth of other info which you don't find elsewhere. By all means criticise the content. Criticism of SC hims...
by Sartorius_2
Wed Feb 15, 2017 10:02 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Bespoke shirtmaker
Replies: 104
Views: 9146

Re: Bespoke shirtmaker

Manself wrote:Has anyone tried any of the other Neapolitans who feature heavily online? I'm thinking of D'Avino and Luca Avitabile?
Would love to try D'Avino but it seems he rarely visits London, and is not easy for me to justify a trip to Naples (Paris, on the other hand...).
by Sartorius_2
Tue Feb 14, 2017 4:25 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Bespoke shirtmaker
Replies: 104
Views: 9146

Re: Bespoke shirtmaker

I have heard that Mary Frittolini has now closed her business down permanently. Just wondered whether anyone can verify, or has any other news of her?
by Sartorius_2
Tue Feb 23, 2016 1:50 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Fabric books for casual shirts
Replies: 6
Views: 738

Fabric books for casual shirts

Can anyone recommend fabric books for casual shirts. By 'casual' I mean denim, chambray or perhaps brushed cotton.

I have generally used Thomas Mason in the past but TM is quite formal and has extremely limited casual styles.

Any recommendations would be welcome.
by Sartorius_2
Fri Oct 30, 2015 10:01 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Bespoke shirtmaker
Replies: 104
Views: 9146

Re: Bespoke shirtmaker

Has anyone gathered definite plans of Maria Frittolini? I saw her in Paris and know she's moving to Italy. Whether that is only to rest, or to resume work I couldn't say for sure. [Given her illness, I wasn't sure how far to pry in that department, especially since her English, while miles better t...
by Sartorius_2
Wed Oct 21, 2015 4:53 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Bespoke shirtmaker
Replies: 104
Views: 9146

Re: Bespoke shirtmaker

Does anyone have any recent, first-hand experience of Fiorenzo Auricchio at D’Avino? I gather he is based in Naples but visits London regularly.
by Sartorius_2
Wed Oct 14, 2015 8:26 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Bespoke shirtmaker
Replies: 104
Views: 9146

Re: Bespoke shirtmaker

Does anyone have any recent first hand experience with Courtot or Lucca in Paris?
by Sartorius_2
Fri Oct 09, 2015 10:05 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Bespoke shirtmaker
Replies: 104
Views: 9146

Re: Bespoke shirtmaker

This is a quote from Alden from a thread back in 2012: "The results are in. Mary's work is the direct result of her apprenticeship with Pierre. His hand is there, and it is the best I have ever seen bar none. When over ten years ago Pierre Duboin told me he was retiring, I was sartorially devastated...
by Sartorius_2
Thu Oct 08, 2015 8:58 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Bespoke shirtmaker
Replies: 104
Views: 9146

Re: Bespoke shirtmaker

Mary's work is excellent. She nailed my collar in a way that my last London maker never managed to do even after numerous attempts. Button placement also - something I've never even been offered in London. And her finishing is so much better than I've had elsewhere (although I've found that her butt...
by Sartorius_2
Sat Oct 03, 2015 10:24 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Bespoke shirtmaker
Replies: 104
Views: 9146

Re: Bespoke shirtmaker

I live in London but alas there are no bespoke shirtmakers working here anymore. I would not subscribe to this quote.There are several bespoke shirtmakers in town. .... ....What counts for me is the result. My immediate reaction was similar to David´s....until I realized that the OP was adhering to...
by Sartorius_2
Wed Sep 30, 2015 7:19 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Bespoke shirtmaker
Replies: 104
Views: 9146

Re: Bespoke shirtmaker

It will be difficult to find a replacement for Mary. She is an outstanding woman and her work is sublime. I have no personal experiences with these houses, but in Paris both Charvet and Lanvin make shirts to the specific standard of bespoke to which you subscribe, e.g. with muslin fittings. Charvet...