Search found 18 matches

by gefinzi
Sun Nov 25, 2007 4:07 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: "Seen, quite seen, thank you very much"
Replies: 37
Views: 26141

Dear Gefinzi Thanks for the note about your experience with the H&S cloth. Can we be sure it is the same cloth? Next time I am in at H&S I will stop and have a look. What is the reference number for the cloth? As you rightly point out in your example, there is no reason why a bold fabric cannot be ...
by gefinzi
Sun Nov 25, 2007 1:13 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: "Seen, quite seen, thank you very much"
Replies: 37
Views: 26141

I had a suit made from what I am quite certain is the same cloth as pictured in the first suit. It is Escorial wool from Holland and Sherry. Very high quality. I could not imagine a wool of that quality (and relative scarcity) and with that pattern sold as RTW. In person the wool has a bit less "pop...
by gefinzi
Mon Jun 18, 2007 1:28 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Raglan sleeves on a double breasted overcoat?
Replies: 14
Views: 6258

1. A set shoulder works better on a DB overcoat. 2. There are some fabrics that are similar, but not one exactly the same. I am studying an overcoat fabric for the Cloth Club and would always prefer earth colors for a raglan overcoat in the way one would choose brown or green tweed for a country co...
by gefinzi
Sun Jun 17, 2007 5:01 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Raglan sleeves on a double breasted overcoat?
Replies: 14
Views: 6258

My thanks to JamesT1 as well for posting the picture. There is a picture of the Duke wearing a navy suit with a bold windowpane. I don't recall if it is one of Flusser's books...I have several books on the Duke at home as well as the two volume catalog of the auction for the Duke and Duchess's estat...
by gefinzi
Fri Jun 15, 2007 12:29 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Raglan sleeves on a double breasted overcoat?
Replies: 14
Views: 6258

Raglan sleeves on a double breasted overcoat?

What do you guys think of this overcoat? I love everything about it, except I'm not sure about the shoulders. Raglan sleeves with a double-breasted raincoat, no problem. Raglan sleeves with a double-breasted topcoat/overcoat, I'm not sure. Thoughts? Anyone seen that fantastic fabric for sale? Pictur...
by gefinzi
Sun Apr 29, 2007 7:47 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Apparel Arts Project
Replies: 8
Views: 3560

Apparel Arts Project

In the last issue of Classic Style magazine there was an article on Apparel Arts. Within the article reference is made to a gentleman in London (a member here?) who is trying to digitalize all the Apparel Arts magazines from 1932-1950 and make them publicly available. Does anyone know how far along ...
by gefinzi
Sun Jan 28, 2007 11:54 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Shoulder puckering
Replies: 8
Views: 5362

Thank you so much for the input. This forum is invaluable for these matters.
Will making the suggested change/repair result is a shorter sleeve? One of my coats has buttonholes cut in the sleeves which wil limit sleeve-lengthening.
by gefinzi
Sun Jan 28, 2007 9:21 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Shoulder puckering
Replies: 8
Views: 5362

I'm afraid I live in technological darkness and don't have a digital camera, but the picture posted by Mr. Alden is the problem. A horizontal dimple or dent, perhaps a bit more noticeable on my coats than the posted image. It is enough that I find it detracts from the jacket's appearance, and would ...
by gefinzi
Sun Jan 28, 2007 8:43 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Shoulder puckering
Replies: 8
Views: 5362

Shoulder puckering

I have several good suits with a problem I will call shoulder puckering. At the upper part of the sleeve, just under the shoulder pad, the sleeves tend to "dent" inward. Pulling down on the sleeve makes this "dent" disappear. (I'm not talking about the "puckering" at the sleeve-head which is a norma...
by gefinzi
Fri Dec 29, 2006 8:42 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Books on British and Italian style
Replies: 4
Views: 2779

I purchased "Mr. Classic" and regret the outlay. No detailed discussion of style and photos which are large but not terribly interesting from a classic clothing perspective. Very different book from Dressing the Man, for instance. Perhaps worth buying if you can get it as a close-out at 10 or 15 dol...
by gefinzi
Sun Dec 17, 2006 8:05 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Can pant legs be widened?
Replies: 1
Views: 1170

Can pant legs be widened?

I have a pair of suit pants by Attolini that taper more than I would like. On each pant leg the seam on the inward facing side of the pant has about 0.75-1.0" extra fabric. This surplus is not present on the outward facing side of the pant leg. All of the surplus is also to one side of the seam (not...
by gefinzi
Sat Dec 16, 2006 7:08 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: custom canvas bags?
Replies: 6
Views: 3654

Thanks for the tip. I sent them an email. Haven't heard back from the sites previously contacted.
by gefinzi
Wed Dec 13, 2006 11:06 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: custom canvas bags?
Replies: 6
Views: 3654

I have several fine old leather suitcases and wish to have covers made for them (canvas with leather trim). The sites referenced don't mention custom orders. Fogg and Brady seemed more likely to accept the job so I sent them emails and await their reply.
by gefinzi
Thu Nov 23, 2006 5:53 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: quick poll: would you wear a bow tie with a business suit?
Replies: 48
Views: 16932

I do all the time, but my business is medicine.
by gefinzi
Fri Nov 17, 2006 11:14 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Topcoat wool request and proposal
Replies: 0
Views: 889

Topcoat wool request and proposal

I would love to have a light weight topcoat (18 oz?) made of flannel wool with a medium to slightly dark gray base and a bold navy windowpane, like the one posted about half way down this thread (sorry, I'm too technologically limited to know how to pull the pic out and post separately). The windowp...