Search found 37 matches

by lancepryor
Mon May 05, 2008 7:38 pm
Forum: Elegant Living
Topic: Does anybody know about tea?
Replies: 44
Views: 10737

In the USA, I have ordered from plymouthtea.com, and I find their teas to be quite good and reasonably priced. I am a fan of Assam teas, and they have an extensive selection. In the past, I have also order from Old Town Tea & Spice in Alexandria, Virginia, and they have good prices and will ship, th...
by lancepryor
Fri Apr 18, 2008 12:44 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Polo Ralph Lauren Bench Made Shoes
Replies: 3
Views: 2447

The regular Polo Ralph Lauren shoes, "Benchmade in England," are made by Crockett & Jones. It seems that the quality is somewhere between C&J's regular Benchmade line and their Handgrade line, although this is somewhat speculative -- e.g. some of the shoes have a hidden channel on the outsole (akin ...
by lancepryor
Tue Feb 19, 2008 7:39 pm
Forum: Elegant Living
Topic: Patek Phillipe
Replies: 11
Views: 4190

As an owner of simple styles of both manufacturers (PP and Breguet), I would say that PP is a far better investment. While both of my watches work well, my wife's Breguet has literally spent 1/2 of its life at Breguet being repaired (4 separate visits over 5 years), and I am appalled that Breguet ha...
by lancepryor
Wed Dec 19, 2007 2:10 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Guanaco
Replies: 3
Views: 1940

Guanaco is an expensive and rare fabric -- considerably more expensive than cashmere, but less than Vicuna, as far as I can tell. I have seen Guanaco from Oxxford, one piece (a sample) from Hickey Freeman, and I would assume Brioni and Kiton also use it. I don't know what companies weave the fabric,...
by lancepryor
Fri Nov 16, 2007 6:16 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: How much leather is needed for a pair of shoes?
Replies: 11
Views: 3885

I would suggest you inquire of your shoemaker how much he would like. The answer to this question is not so straightforward, aside from a literal answer determined by the style of the shoe and your shoe size -- the latter you could answer taping over a shoe tree, cutting the resulting 'shell' into t...
by lancepryor
Wed May 02, 2007 2:00 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Is it just me???
Replies: 18
Views: 9035

The oak-bark solution IS the tanning agent. The word 'tanning' comes from the word tannin, which is contained in oak bark (as well as many other materials, including red wine). Tannins cause the fibers in the hide to inter-lock and to tighten, which is what gives leather its durability, strength, an...
by lancepryor
Mon Apr 23, 2007 2:19 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Is it just me???
Replies: 18
Views: 9035

I have never believed the assertions that a Topy would in any way harm a shoe. They are very thin, and I just don't believe that their presence would in any way affect the wear of the shoe (aside, of course, from extending the life of the sole). Remember, for example, that many shoemakers offer diff...
by lancepryor
Sat Apr 21, 2007 6:58 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Hilton Suits?
Replies: 1
Views: 1727

Yes they are still around. They are known as Vestimenta in the USA, perhaps because of the Norman Hilton brand that was well known in the US in the past.

Vestimenta also make the Giorgio Armani Blue and Black label tailored clothing (of course grossly overpriced at full retail).
by lancepryor
Tue Feb 20, 2007 7:30 pm
Forum: Elegant Living
Topic: Artisanal Wines Versus Laboratory Wines: a provocation.
Replies: 13
Views: 7735

There is another major factor driving the homogenization of wine around the world: consumers' reliance on the wine ratings of a few wine critics, most notably Robert Parker and, to a lesser degree, the Wine Spectator. If a wine gets a high Parker rating, it is sure to be a best seller and will suppo...
by lancepryor
Sat Feb 10, 2007 3:57 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Update on "remote bespoke"
Replies: 19
Views: 8563

by lancepryor
Wed Jan 17, 2007 1:41 am
Forum: Elegant Living
Topic: "Monopole"?
Replies: 10
Views: 5205

As noted, the term Monopole IS used in Burgundy -- the reason it is rarely seen is that there are relatively few vineyards owned exclusively by one owner, due to the inheritance laws which operate in Burgundy. Some even relatively small vineyards may have literally dozens of owners, some of whom may...
by lancepryor
Wed Dec 13, 2006 6:15 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Brioni--what's the fuss?
Replies: 46
Views: 21648

I guess I shall be a bit of an iconoclast here, in that I like Brioni and don't find it ridiculous when taken in the right context. Brioni fits me very well (their standard 40R), and I like the way they feel on my body -- very light on the shoulders, yet well fitting. Of course, Brioni have a partic...
by lancepryor
Thu Dec 07, 2006 7:01 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: H. Hunstman Hand Fimished Jackets
Replies: 2
Views: 2197

I have several Huntsman RTW that were sold via Barneys and were made by Chester Barrie. I'm not certain that these correspond to those you reference and, unfortunately, C. Barrie I believe has breathed its proverbial last breath, so I'm not certain who is making them for Huntsman today. The garments...
by lancepryor
Mon Sep 18, 2006 12:41 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: "Polishing calf"
Replies: 6
Views: 1715

This sounds like the leather that E Green uses for many/most of its shoes, perhaps excepting the black ones -- EG calls it 'crust' leather, as it has been tanned but not dyed, so it is in a crust state -- this is a term used in the leather industry. EG can then apply polish and dyes to yield the exa...
by lancepryor
Tue Jul 11, 2006 1:58 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Myth & reality - tailoring 2006
Replies: 5
Views: 3511

I believe what we are seeing is a consequence of the increasing relative cost of hand-made goods. Unfortunately, the (ever) increasing cost of bespoke is the logical and natural result of the laws of economics (see Baumol's Cost Disease). Because of the increasing prices of bespoke, these goods have...