Fresco or Mohair?

[koolhistorian]

Gentlemen,
Just a quite dumb question, but from time to time I must confess some ignorance - what is more suitable (in terms of coolness) for a summer suit - a fresco weave or a wool and mohair blend? Of course, we are speaking of unlined suits!
Thank you very much,
Dan

[Sator]

There is more to it than just the fibre content. I have seen overcoatings with mohair in them. 14 Oz fresco will not run as cool as 9 Oz fresco.

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum

[yachtie]

FWIW, my truly summer suits are usually mohair blends. But I like mohair. I think an open woven mohair (like some Moxon qualities) is about as cool wearing as suit as you can get.

[Sator]

FWIW, my truly summer suits are usually mohair blends. But I like mohair. I think an open woven mohair (like some Moxon qualities) is about as cool wearing as suit as you can get.

I actually agree with you. The crispness and tightness of a weave is a critical determinant of how cool a cloth runs. That's why a really tight 20 Oz worsted can run cool. Mohair always ends up making a cloth very tight and crisp by the nature of the fibre.

However, in contrast to our experience, I have heard Will say that he thought a light pure wool fresco ran cooler than a mohair blend. It strikes me as being dependent entirely on other characteristics of the weave. That is, as I said before, you cannot merely use the fibre type as the sole determinant of how cool a cloth will run.

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum

[koolhistorian]

I am looking at aprox. 9-10 oz fresco and 7-8 oz mohair and wool. The same fabric merchant has also a 550 gr. (18 oz, if my calculus is good) fresco!
As my previous summer suits were selected only on the basis of fabric lightness - mostly italian flimsy fabric, and they are few, because I do not wear too much suits in summer, and when I wear it is mostly linen (being an academic has its advantages), combine that with the fact that in Bucharest summers are extremely hot - high 30 C, even 40 - and quite long (spring and autumn quasi disappeared), we are moving slowly towards tropical wear. Frankly , I do not die for mohair's crispness, that is why I was enquiring about the differences - either I go for the Minnis's Airborne or Rangoon, either for wool and kid mohair!

[Costi]

In my opinion (and experience) ventilation is more desirable in a warm season suit than shielding. Perhaps in dry and very hot desert weather using a tightly woven heavy wool cloth traps a layer of relatively cooler air close to your skin, preventing the outside hot air from scorching your skin; at any rate, unless you are used to such climate conditions, you will be sweating copiously under your woolen wraps. But in milder climates, where populations other than bedouins live in thriving cities, a cloth with an open weave is more desirable.
Fresco cloth is generally more fluid, especially if not too lightweight, while mohair is more stiff and has a shine. Heavier frescoes are generally woven with thicker yarns, making for a more porous weave than more lightweight frescoes woven with finer yarns. I think both fresco and mohair blends are good for summer and one needs to judge each cloth individually in terms of porousness, sheen, hand, drape - before purchasing it.

[Sator]

The lighter mohair blend will run cooler than the slightly heavier fresco. It will also drape better and hold a crisper crease.

I generally agree with Costi. That is mostly because to get insulation against the heat from a heavy cloth you have to find a heavy weight cloth that is suitable. Flannels run too warm. A cloth has to be very tight and "dry" to work as heat insulation. Many worsteds are too loosely woven for the purpose.

However, in really severe heat, light open weave cloths will fail. They breath to let in hot air, exposing the wearer to the elements. I have had this happen. No, I wouldn't run around normally in 45C heat in a 22 Oz three piece suit but then again, I haven't had much of chance yet to try it. I may yet enjoy it, however.

The worst thing is middle weight worsted about 10-13 Oz. These don't really shut out the heat well enough, but do trap heat. This leads to the wearing to erroneously conclude: "thank goodness the cloth wasn't heavier as I would have died in a thermo-nuclear meltdown if it were!"

I'm not sure 18 Oz fresco makes much sense. Heavy cloth insulates by shutting out the hot air. You probably don't want it to be open and porous if you are wanting heat insulation.

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum

[koolhistorian]

Gentlemen,
Thank you very much for your answers! As I have still time to ponder over the question - I was planning to buy the fabrics in february - I will probably do a solomonic action - buy both fabrics and see what is happening!
My real concern with the mohair was the "shiny" look (probably I am still a victim of the early '90, when glowing sharkskin's had invaded my eyes) and with fresco the appeal was made by the ratio between a certain weight and breathability. I will post the results, for sure!