The elegant necktie as seen by Jean-Claude Colban of Charvet

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Re: US trunk show

Postby JCC » Wed Oct 29, 2008 9:11 am

charle22 wrote: Will you visit Bergdorf Goodman this fall or have you already?


Charle22, the next "trunk show" at Bergdorf's will be sometime next Spring. I shall inform LL members here.
Thank you for your interest.

garu wrote:The phrase "the feeling of a poet's tie," which you used near the beginning of this thread, hits the mark well.


Garu, this refers to the fashion of the Fifties. The poet's tie was launched by the actor William Marshall, during the Winter 1952/1953, at an event where he attracted some attention by wearing a lilac tuxedo - and being in company of Daniele Delorme. Needless to say, the poet's tie - and the lilac tuxedo - never gained much acceptance as part of formalwear...

ImageImage
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Re: US trunk show

Postby garu » Wed Oct 29, 2008 10:08 am

JCC wrote:Garu, this refers to the fashion of the Fifties. The poet's tie was launched by the actor William Marshall, during the Winter 1952/1953, at an event where he attracted some attention by wearing a lilac tuxedo - and being in company of Daniele Delorme. Needless to say, the poet's tie - and the lilac tuxedo - never gained much acceptance as part of formalwear...

ImageImage


M. Colban, considering the sartorial stress that she is obviously under (close proximity to the lilac tuxedo), I can well understand why Mme. Delorme looks nonplussed!

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Postby dopey » Tue Nov 25, 2008 7:19 pm

Mr. Colban:

Today I was at Saks Fifth Avenue in New York and noticed some unusually shaped bowties - the top halves were straight sided and the bottom halves were butterfly shaped. I suppose the obvious explanation is that they help create a narrower knot. Is that the case? Any other explanation?

Seems like an interesting idea. Is it new? How has it been received?
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Postby JCC » Thu Nov 27, 2008 3:10 pm

dopey wrote:Today I was at Saks Fifth Avenue in New York and noticed some unusually shaped bowties - the top halves were straight sided and the bottom halves were butterfly shaped. I suppose the obvious explanation is that they help create a narrower knot. Is that the case? Any other explanation? Seems like an interesting idea. Is it new? How has it been received?


Dopey, your description is perfectly accurate. You are right about the knot.
This is one of our classic shapes, called "demi bombe". Here is an image to clarify:

Image
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Postby dopey » Tue Dec 02, 2008 9:33 pm

Thank you. I came to this thread with the intention of "bumping" it for attention as I had seen no reply. Somehow I missed that you had replied days earlier. My apologies for not noticing.

I see that not only is the knot narrower, but also the tie has a top and a bottom (i.e., it is not symmetric around the horizontal axis). I am not sure if I like that - it may take some getting used to. I also noticed that, like your example, all the ones I saw made this way are intended for formal wear. Is that just a coincidence?

By the way, while you and I know to what I am referring, I fear my description might not have been clear enough for others. It would be helpful if you could photograph the tie unmade so that people could see how it is cut. While it may be a classic for Charvet, I would not be surprised if others find it unique and interesting enough for further attention.

Thank you again.
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Postby JCC » Thu Dec 11, 2008 3:17 pm

dopey wrote: It would be helpful if you could photograph the tie unmade so that people could see how it is cut.


Dopey, your wish is my - belated - command. Here is a picture.

Image
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Postby Concordia » Thu Dec 11, 2008 3:49 pm

JCC:

Here's a question you might be in a position to answer. A long time ago I had a Parisian-trained teacher who wore a bowtie something like what you picture, but even softer and droopier. It was tucked under the leaves of his shirt collar. Perhaps it was snapped and not tied. Anyway, it wasn't a bad look for summer black tie with a white dinner jacket.

Is this a style that is at all familiar to you? Is it characteristic of a particular time or place, and is it something you've ever liked?
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Postby JCC » Thu Dec 11, 2008 5:46 pm

Concordia wrote: It was tucked under the leaves of his shirt collar. Perhaps it was snapped and not tied.


Concordia, I am not sure I understand. Do you mean like this?

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Postby Concordia » Thu Dec 11, 2008 6:22 pm

More or less. But with more conventional collar points, it was completely hidden behind them.
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Postby JCC » Fri Dec 26, 2008 4:23 pm

Concordia wrote:JCC:Is this a style that is at all familiar to you? Is it characteristic of a particular time or place, and is it something you've ever liked?


Concordia, if I understand you correctly, such tucking under the collar of a bow tie evokes - for me - knots of the 19th century, somehow like the picture I posted. Yet, if the collar is definitely longer, hence if it significantly covers the blades, I would say this defeats the purpose, or at least the tradition. In my opinion, such under-tucking , to be both historically evocative and interesting style wise , calls for a smaller collar, somehow a casual version of a wing collar, possibly rounded, in order for some of the bow tie to show. And yes, it would help if the upper part of the blades would be flat. In any case, this is certainly not a look for everybody everyday. It rather suggests a "rugged individualist", to quote an appropriate expression found here.
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Postby rjman » Fri Dec 26, 2008 6:05 pm

JCC wrote:
Concordia wrote:JCC:Is this a style that is at all familiar to you? Is it characteristic of a particular time or place, and is it something you've ever liked?


Concordia, if I understand you correctly, such tucking under the collar of a bow tie evokes - for me - knots of the 19th century, somehow like the picture I posted. Yet, if the collar is definitely longer, hence if it significantly covers the blades, I would say this defeats the purpose, or at least the tradition. In my opinion, such under-tucking , to be both historically evocative and interesting style wise , calls for a smaller collar, somehow a casual version of a wing collar, possibly rounded, in order for some of the bow tie to show. And yes, it would help if the upper part of the blades would be flat. In any case, this is certainly not a look for everybody everyday. It rather suggests a "rugged individualist", to quote an appropriate expression found here.
There is a great picture of Peter O'Toole and Omar Sharif in evening dress in the 1960s where Omar Sharif is wearing his bow tie tucked under his collar points.
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Re: The elegant necktie as seen by Jean-Claude Colban of Charvet

Postby dopey » Mon Oct 05, 2009 2:16 am

M Colban:
I noticed that Bergdorf in NY has recently begun carrying your pointed end bowties. I bought a few several weeks ago and have been enjoying them. Thank you.
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Re: The elegant necktie as seen by Jean-Claude Colban of Charvet

Postby JCC » Mon Oct 05, 2009 10:50 am

dopey wrote:M Colban:
I noticed that Bergdorf in NY has recently begun carrying your pointed end bowties. I bought a few several weeks ago and have been enjoying them. Thank you.


Thanks Dopey,
Careful attention is always paid to Londonloungers' comments.
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