White Tie Bespoke

[ay329]

Gentleman, I have axed the idea of using the Navy Blue Mistral for this commission. My tailor really liked the cloth and we agreed it would be put to better use as a 3 piece lounge suit.

I have focused my efforts now on a 14-16oz Black Barathera cloth. I passed on the formal suits available from H. Lesser, am awaiting samples from Smith, but would welcome suggestions for alternatives.

How should the double band on the side length of the trouser look? Does it go over the trouser pocket?

Should I get 2 or 3 buttons on the jacket?

[le.gentleman]

Gentleman, I have axed the idea of using the Navy Blue Mistral for this commission. My tailor really liked the cloth and we agreed it would be put to better use as a 3 piece lounge suit.

I have focused my efforts now on a 14-16oz Black Barathera cloth. I passed on the formal suits available from H. Lesser, am awaiting samples from Smith, but would welcome suggestions for alternatives.

How should the double band on the side length of the trouser look? Does it go over the trouser pocket?

Should I get 2 or 3 buttons on the jacket?

I would definitely go with 3 buttons.

[Leonard Logsdail]

Charlie, thanks for the Richard Weldon post. Their web site has an overload of information...but you gave me my answers

Which cloth to use?
1.Navy Blue Mistral? Unsure if to make it into a 3 piece business suit or enjoy it for my White Tie dress.
I prefer this cloth since I already have it, like its heft and its an open weave, but am afraid Navy is not the "right"/dark enough color
Its funny when I see picture of the Duke's midnight blue white tie dress...it looks even lighter than Navy (I like it)

2. Alternative 2 is a 400 gram midnight blue or a black barathera cloth Made in Huddersfield

I need some strong opinions: Don't mince your comments...smack some sense into me.

Leonard, I understand the Tuxedo was donated....but did HJ keep the White Tie?

I have been to his appartment on several occasions. It is just about completely bare. Almost no clothes except for jeans, T.shirts and perhaps one dress shirt. I doubt very much that he kept the tails.

he has a personal dresser who takes his monthly itinerary and then goes out and "borrows" clothes from stores for him to use. she then returns them. the argument being, because he is such a public figure he cannot be seen to wear the same clothes all the time. To purchase that amount of clothes and keep them would be foolhardy. By using them and returning them the stores get bragging rights. And they are happy to do this, so it works out well for everyone.

[ay329]

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=9715#p51128

What do you folks think about the buttons on these tails?

I like how they are not covered by the same material as on the lapels

[cdo]

I personally prefer uncovered horn buttons on evening tailcoats and have seen several vintage '20s and '30s coats with these kind of buttons. The Duke of Windsor had uncovered (plastic?) buttons for his midnight blue tailcoat:

DoW Evening Tails.jpg

- C

[Rudolf]

Well, I hope I do not fail in guessing that the Duke of Windsor would have shewn plastic buttons on his tailcoat.
Please note, that in case you use a midnight blue cloth, your buttons have to be in midnight blue as well.
Quite a while ago, I bought midnight blue dress buttons for my Dinner suit. They had been manufactured in the 1930s and had a concave shape (german term: 'geschüsselt'). This rarer type of button looks extremely elegant.

[ay329]

Rudolph, can you post a pic of this button?

Where can I purchase them online? Or are you donating any to my cause?