White Tie Bespoke

[ay329]

Am considering commissioning a Bespoke White Tie Formal Dress.

I have read the main LL article on this compliments of Etutee and will follow the tenants of White Tie religiously

Need suggestions to source the white pique cotton cloth for the shirt, vest and bowtie

I welcome suggestions for a mid-heavy weight Midnight Blue cloth....13oz at the lighest....up to 19oz at the heavy.
Is Barathera the only choice?

Would members suggest I use the midweight range cloth for the jacket while the heavier stuff for the trousers?
I am cold blooded and tolerate heavy weight cloths well

Suggestions on where to source the midnight blue grossgrain lapel facings and the band on the trouser?

Does anyone strongly suggest I abandon a project like this? My tailor has made them decades ago and I await my shirt makers response as to whether he can make the shirt.

Would the shirt maker or tailor make the white pique vest?

I am in no rush to make this outfit...but is the mid to heavy weight cloth (in an open weave like the Mistral) a potential LL Cloth Club project...in case other members desire their own black tie or white tie dress?

[Leonard Logsdail]

If your tailor can make them properly, and you would use them, then go for it. Evening dress well made and cut are, to me, about as elegant as a man can look these days.

I think 19 oz would be far too heavy, but that's your choice. Your tailor should be able to obtain the trouser braid and the facings for you. If he cannot, then you can contact me. I can help either side of the Atlantic, depending on where you are based.

Leonard

[ay329]

Leonard thank you for your post

I have found a suitable cloth for the tails...but am still looking for a slightly heavier version for my trousers.

Is Barathera the only cloth?

Any recommendations for heavier cloth in the ranges of say 16-19oz....preferably midnight

Leonard...do you have any white tie dress pictures which you have commissioned for your clients?

[Leonard Logsdail]

White tie and tails - same fabric.

No photo's, apart from the one I made for Hugh Jackman for the Oscars 18 months ago. you can put a search in on Google for that.

Leonard

[couch]

I did not catch the Academy Awards show, so I followed Leonard's hint and looked up HJ's attire on the occasion. I believe Leonard's work deserves to be showcased here, so I'm linking to some photos. On the evidence of these photos, both in black tie and white, Jackman is the best-dressed male celebrity I've seen in a long time. While the shot of him dancing in tails shows he may never challenge Astaire, it gives an idea of the mobility of the coat, which seems good. The cloth appears farly light in the modern way; perhaps Leonard could let us know what it is. The shoulders of the dinner jacket seem to lack the soft extension and slight roping I associate with the Logsdail cut; but overall the DJ strikes me as an effective look, if perhaps a bit short. The dinner suit trousers look a bit long and the shoes heavy (unless they're tap shoes or perhaps, HJ being Aussie, they're dress RM Williams boots . . . ). But if Jackman is starting or representing a trend, then perhaps there's hope yet for public figures as sartorial leaders. See what you think:

[Jordan Marc]

If midnight blue appeals to you, consider a mohair-and-wool blend cloth in your search. Not too much mohair, mind you, just enough to give the cloth a subtle lustre. For the lapels, bypass black facings and choose dark blue silk-satin of high-quality. Regarding the braid on the outer seams of the trousers, tails require two braids per side. While black tie has one satin stripe per side, which is sewn over the outer
seam, the braids on tails flank either side of the seam.

Regarding accessories, dress shirts with wing collars needn't be the boiled and heavily starched things that our great-great grandfathers wore. Find the best shirtmaker you can and pick a fabric with texture, such as pique, and never buy just one shirt but two or three. Rather than single cuffs, which always makes me think the wearer is stingy or there wasn't enough cloth on the bolt, opt for foldback cuffs and always choose double-sided links. If you watch old movies dating from the late 1930s to 40s, you've probably noticed actors in tails with long gold chains drooping down their right side and disappearing into a pocket. That may have worked for mobsters and bandleaders uptown and down, but it's now in rather bad taste.
If you've got a gold Patek Philippe or vintage tankwatch, strap it on. Taking a step or two downward, the classic sock and shoe combination for tails are midnight blue or black over-the-calf length silk hose, with
or without clocks, companioned by midnight blue or black patent pumps with pinched or flat satin bows. If you're uncomfortable at the thought of wearing pumps with bows, bypass them and choose patent plain toe lace-ups.

JMB

[couch]

I just noticed that HJ appears to be wearing a pre-tied white tie. Takes things down at least a notch to see the fastener. I hope it was due only to the demands of quick scene-changing for the show. I trust the rather enormous and vermilion carnation was also part of the visual overstatement of the "musical" number.

[ay329]

The tails on HJ were part of the inspiration for this thread. Funny to see that the tailor who made such works of art actually posted on this thread.

I think I might use the Navy Mistral cloth for my white tie project. It has the heft I desire and its an open weave cloth. It is not as dark as midnight...but I like the color of the cloth a lot

My shirtmaker responded that he can make me the cotton pique wing collar shirt...but no detacheable collar. He mentioned only the front of the shirt is pique while the sleeves, back and other parts of the body will be the cotton poplin I choose. He will also order me some extra pique cloth in order for my tailor to make me a white pique vest.

Suggestions for white pique or marcella bowties are welcome, including links to online sources where I can purchase them

[ay329]

Leonard, did you also make Hugh Jackman's Dinner Jacket?

Did HJ get to keep these outfits or where they paid for & the property of the Oscars?

As to his White Tie dress trousers, perhaps the action shots prevent me from viewing them clearly, but did they have pleats?

Were they full trousers and or something different?

[Leonard Logsdail]

The Oscars, and film people, want everything for nothing. I will only work for them when they pay me. So I only made the full dress as no big designer knew how to make them! And I got paid. His tuxedo was donated. I was asked to make tuxedo's for this years presenters, but refused for the same reason.

No pleats, tight legs. Baz Lerman wanted him to look as tall and lean as I could get it.

[Simon A]

Mad Australian directors....it would be a very tall order these days to find an MC taller and leaner than HJ, who can sing, dance and carry on a patter in a spontaneous manner. A great stage actor who does well on screen as well. A very nice tailcoat, by the way

[storeynicholas]

I just noticed that HJ appears to be wearing a pre-tied white tie. Takes things down at least a notch to see the fastener. I hope it was due only to the demands of quick scene-changing for the show. I trust the rather enormous and vermilion carnation was also part of the visual overstatement of the "musical" number.

Great outfit, but I agree with couch's comments - the pre-tied bow and the gigantic flower might prompt the comment:
"Do you think that he's on the stage?" But, then, of course, he is!
NJS

[Charlie Huang]

You can buy marcella fabric from Richard James Weldon for around £14 a metre:

http://www.richardjamesweldon.com/

I'm currently ordering some from them as I am attempting to make a DB evening waistcoat like this one.



They also sell trouser braid, silk grosgrain facings in both colours and in two weights, silk grosgrain covered buttons, etc. You could buy everything you want to use to make a full dress ensemble save the barathea wool.

[ay329]

Charlie, thanks for the Richard Weldon post. Their web site has an overload of information...but you gave me my answers

Which cloth to use?
1.Navy Blue Mistral? Unsure if to make it into a 3 piece business suit or enjoy it for my White Tie dress.
I prefer this cloth since I already have it, like its heft and its an open weave, but am afraid Navy is not the "right"/dark enough color
Its funny when I see picture of the Duke's midnight blue white tie dress...it looks even lighter than Navy (I like it)

2. Alternative 2 is a 400 gram midnight blue or a black barathera cloth Made in Huddersfield

I need some strong opinions: Don't mince your comments...smack some sense into me.

Leonard, I understand the Tuxedo was donated....but did HJ keep the White Tie?

[Costi]

I think the Mistral is out if question, it is a charming cloth for a blazer with patch pockets, but not really for a three-piece business suit and so much the less a tailcoat. Both texture (large grain) and colour are off in my view for formal dress applications. I wouldn't even bet on the black Brisa for tails, while I think a summer dinner suit would be great.
I am no fan of lightweight cloth, but in choosing the weight bare in mind that tails are considerably longer than a jacket, which adds weight and improves the way the cloth drapes anyway.