Teach me about vests.

[whnay.]

I will be ordering a DJ soon and have decided to do a SB with vest. Teach me about vests, photographs would be helpful...I'm inclined towards a SB vest but would be open to just about anything.

Thanks in advance.

[kilted2000]

For all your Black Tie information needs see www.blacktieguide.com

[alden]

Hello Whay,

A good many men associate the DJ with “dressing up” and special evenings where a few extras and accessories might come in handy to impress the crowd and delight the ladies. You might be tempted to go “all the way” and borrow elements from white tie attire like a wing collar or a fancily lapelled vest to out do your masculine rivals. And if you fall prey to the temptation to shine, you’ll never know the understated glow that distinguishes the true gentleman. For, if ever there was a moment to keep details simple and concentrate only on the fit of your clothes, the dinner suit is that moment. You will say a lot about yourself with measured self restraint than by excess.

Keep the vest as simple as possible. Avoid lapels on your vest if you have the courage to do so. The vest in the middle of the page (model 866) made in a three button would be a very handsome way to complement your SB coat. The 868 is for white tie as is the unfortunate 872.




Cheers

Michael

[whnay.]

You'll be happy to know that the one you've chosen was the one I had in mind, though I've found it hard to find pictures of it in action. I'd like more "belly" as the vest arches down to the buttons but otherwise this is right on the mark. I'm guessing black only - what would you think of it in a dove gray?

[kilted2000]

Why is #872 unfortunate? It seems like a standard low cut three button formal vest to me.

[alden]

I'm guessing black only

You guessed right.

(Dove grey is fine for morning coats etc. not for DJs)

Michael

[alden]

Why is #872 unfortunate? It seems like a standard low cut three button formal vest to me.

Yes, it is a standard formal vest, but it is not a very happy example. The lapel could be executed in a more appealing fashion.

Michael

[kilted2000]

Thank you. This is why I'm here, to learn.

Why is #872 unfortunate? It seems like a standard low cut three button formal vest to me.

Yes, it is a standard formal vest, but it is not a very happy example. The lapel could be executed in a more appealing fashion.

Michael

[DFR]

Hello Whay,

A good many men associate the DJ with “dressing up” and special evenings where a few extras and accessories might come in handy to impress the crowd and delight the ladies. You might be tempted to go “all the way” and borrow elements from white tie attire like a wing collar or a fancily lapelled vest to out do your masculine rivals. And if you fall prey to the temptation to shine, you’ll never know the understated glow that distinguishes the true gentleman. For, if ever there was a moment to keep details simple and concentrate only on the fit of your clothes, the dinner suit is that moment. You will say a lot about yourself with measured self restraint than by excess.

Keep the vest as simple as possible. Avoid lapels on your vest if you have the courage to do so. The vest in the middle of the page (model 866) made in a three button would be a very handsome way to complement your SB coat. The 868 is for white tie as is the unfortunate 872.



Cheers

Michael

I would suggest that in the twenty first century you should be careful not to appear to be affected or using undue ostentation to give you a superior aura which cannot really be justified. Worse you might out do your host which is a terrible faux pas or even be dismissed as a fop or dandy. Maintaining traditions is fine BUT it needs to be done cautiously and not simply because you can or fancy it.

[dopey]

The difficulty with Black Tie today is that the same term is used to describe two needs.
On the one hand, "Black Tie" is the rig used for the most formal of events that most people regularly attend, as White Tie has fallen out of use. In that setting, the vest models Alden criticized are most at home (I am not interested in good or bad execution here, just the generic style). In fact, those vests look very much like they escaped from White Tie duty, with maybe a coat of paint on the way out the door.
On the other hand, Black Tie is also used for more formal leisure occasions. In that setting, the stiff, buttoned-up feeling, you get from those waistcoats works the wrong side of the street. Your choice does o.k., but I would leave it out and go with a cummerbund if your DJ is single breasted or just go DB.

In an ideal world, which most of us don't inhabit, you would have a DJ for both settings.

[whnay.]

If I get a wild hair I may opt to get both a SB and DB coat.

Cummerbunds always leave me wanting...I've only seen it done once where it didn't look "rented" but I agree with you completely that it will be much more comfortable...something I need to give serious consideration given the likely setting of the wedding (Tuscany).

[marcelo]

Does anybody know when "Black Tie" by the LL member G. Bruce Boyer is due to appear?

[manton]

Bill, I am assuming you are going to have this done by A&S rather than Rubinacci. (If not, I heartily recommend that you do so.) If so, have no fear, I have literally watched John H. cut a black tie vest, and was done beautifully, with just the right "scoop" to the front that you are looking for.

[whnay.]

Bill, I am assuming you are going to have this done by A&S rather than Rubinacci. (If not, I heartily recommend that you do so.) If so, have no fear, I have literally watched John H. cut a black tie vest, and was done beautifully, with just the right "scoop" to the front that you are looking for.

Uh oh...don't be disappointed but I'm opting to go with Rubinacci - it was a very hard decision but it works well with my travel schedule from now until next spring.

[manton]

Perhaps I am being unfair, but I have low confidence in the ability of any Neapolitan tailor (and perhaps any Italian tailor) to cut either brace trousers or a vest. Ambrosi has told me flatly that he won't cut brace trousers, and a friend of mine was told the same thing by Rubinacci.