alden wrote:
Let’s assume for the purpose of this study and given his height, the RTW jeans in questions would be cut with a 22 cms rise. In reality 22 cms would be a pretty standard rise for RTW jeans, RTW trousers and Neapolitan trousers (could not resist.)
M Alden
I am won over as to the need for a higher rise trouser, mainly because of the increased comfort but also because of the more attractive line, and would probably say that obtaining a suitable high rise fit is the main selling point to get bespoke trousers, even if casual, even though bespoke trousers are disproportionatly expensive in my view for a piece of tailoring which basically deals with straight lines.
RTW trousers are pretty much OK for me except for the rise issue.
Indeed, Neapolitan-cut trousers are instruments of torture in my view now, years after my excursion to that school of tailoring, due to lack of comfort because of the low rise, excessively narrow trouser leg and the lack of deep pleats to make sitting down comfortable.
I am still a devotee of the Neapolitan jacket, a stroke of Italian genius, as yet unrivaled by other schools for sports coats, though I am inclined to have trousers made elsewhere, by tailors for whom making a full high rise is part of their DNA, and that ofcourse is the English school.
The conundrum is how to reconcile a fuller leg trouser with a Neapolitan coat silhouette as the Neapolitan coat seems to cry for a narrower leg; the narrow leg is part and parcel of the pure Neapolitan silhouette. Any ideas?
