Trouser problem - what to ask my tailor

[bond_and_beyond]

I am heading to London in a few weeks to pick up my fourth bespoke suit, a wonderful grey 3-piece.

Meanwhile, I have gradually come to the conclusion that the trousers on my first three suits, all in the high rise, forward pleated style of Sean Connery's James Bond trousers, are less than perfect to say the least. I have come to this conclusion partially with the help from my mother, who went as far as saying that the seat of my trousers made me look like an old man (!) (I am thirty) and that if my tailor was unable to remedy the problem I should change tailors

The problem with the trousers is in the rear, where they seem baggy with too much excess cloth. My tailor has attempted to correct this in the past, but says he can only take in so much without affecting the pleats.

I therefore turn, in desperation, to you, my fellow loungers for any advice you may have on what I should ask my tailor to do with these trousers. I post some pictures below of how they look (apologies for the quality, they were taken with a mobile phone camera).

The trousers are in flannel and in a birdseye type fabric.

Any advice you may have would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

BB

[alden]

Q: What would you say about the execution of my tailor?

A: I am all for it!

Bond

Were these trousers made to be worn with braces?

I am going to let the tailors here give you some advice,but it seems to me Mom might be right...this time!

Cheers

[bond_and_beyond]

Q: What would you say about the execution of my tailor?

A: I am all for it!

Bond

Were these trousers made to be worn with braces?

Mothers are occasionally right I suppose

The trousers were not made to be worn with braces, they only have side adjusters.

Thanks,
BB

[alden]

BB

It looks like the back rise needs to be shortened. A couple centimeters fabric to be removed under the top seam in back.

A good alterations tailor should be able to fix these for you.

Cheers

[bond_and_beyond]

BB

It looks like the back rise needs to be shortened. A couple centimeters fabric to be removed under the top seam in back.

Many thanks, I will ask my tailor if this can be done. In general how bad do you think these trousers look? Unwearable?

Thanks,
BB

[alden]

BB

Hard to tell from these pictures. I like the look of the taper and general line of the trousers. They are just sagging too much in back. They need a lift, a little nip and tuck...a bit of cosmetic surgery and they will be fine.

Cheers

[bond_and_beyond]

BB

Hard to tell from these pictures. I like the look of the taper and general line of the trousers. They are just sagging too much in back. They need a lift, a little nip and tuck...a bit of cosmetic surgery and they will be fine.

Cheers

Well that is a relief indeed to hear, I was afraid I might have to get all my trousers recut. From the front I think they look alright, see an example. What do you think?

Thanks,
BB

[old henry]

This is a series of ills, as The Great Raphael would say.
The pattern needed a flat seat manipulation before the cloth was cut.
This would have taken out the sag.
The leg at the crotch has been sucked in to compensate.
You seem also to have wide hips which often go with a flatter seat.
This will open the pleats if the paper is not adapted as will sucking in the leg at the crotch.
And dont tell your tailor that you want a trim leg if you are getting pleats.
But this is beyond that.
Your tailor might drop the waistband 5/8' in the back { as Michael suggested}... and "carve out" or "scoop" {flatten} the seat.. and "untrim" the leg.

[ismailalmurtadza]

old henry,
Is cutting a trouser a difficult task ,I mean to get it right (the fit as well as the contour from the
waist below)?.

murtadza

[bond_and_beyond]

This is a series of ills, as The Great Raphael would say.
The pattern needed a flat seat manipulation before the cloth was cut.
This would have taken out the sag.
The leg at the crotch has been sucked in to compensate.
You seem also to have wide hips which often go with a flatter seat.
This will open the pleats if the paper is not adapted as will sucking in the leg at the crotch.
And dont tell your tailor that you want a trim leg if you are getting pleats.
But this is beyond that.
Your tailor might drop the waistband 5/8' in the back { as Michael suggested}... and "carve out" or "scoop" {flatten} the seat.. and "untrim" the leg.

Many thanks for your valuable insight. I do indeed have fairly wide hips combined with slim thighs, which is always a challenge for trousers.

So if I understand you correctly I should preferrably have new trousers made up to a new pattern? But as a good second option the waistband should be dropped and the seat flattened? Should I just ask the tailor about lowering the waistband and flattening the seat, or is there some other words I should use so that he understands what I am aiming for?

Thanks,
BB

[old henry]

Murtazda, yes it is very difficult if one is not a tailor. I had Toninno Christoforo and Raphael to teach me. It needs to be learned just like a carpenter hanging a door or a mechanic replacing a fuel pump. And for Mr Bond, I doubt you tailor will understand what you are saying if he did not do it in the first place but give him a shot. The whole stride is dropped and shortened. This lifts the seat and cleans it out. If he wants I can dig out and send to him a copy of the manipulation. Then he will know too. It is quite simple actually. I refer to this and all of my notes often. But one thing to remember.. Do not trim up pleated trousers. One or the other.

[bond_and_beyond]

Murtazda, yes it is very difficult if one is not a tailor. I had Toninno Christoforo and Raphael to teach me. It needs to be learned just like a carpenter hanging a door or a mechanic replacing a fuel pump. And for Mr Bond, I doubt you tailor will understand what you are saying if he did not do it in the first place but give him a shot. The whole stride is dropped and shortened. This lifts the seat and cleans it out. If he wants I can dig out and send to him a copy of the manipulation. Then he will know too. It is quite simple actually. I refer to this and all of my notes often. But one thing to remember.. Do not trim up pleated trousers. One or the other.

Many thanks again for your advice. Could you perhaps send the manipulation to me so that I might bring it along for my next visit?

I really do like my tailor as he is very service minded and a very likeable fellow, and I am sure he will do his best to sort these trousers out. In all fairness I have lost some weight since the pattern was made.

Pardon my ignorance, but what is meant with "trim up pleated trousers"? One should not taper the legs too much?

Thanks,
BB

[old henry]

Your loosing weight will have a bit to do with it but not really... and what I mean to say is ..if you have pleats.. and you want them to lay properly.. do not tell your tailor that you want a trim leg. It does not work. the pleats will open. you are defeating the purpose of pleats. I will dig out the manipulation when next I am in the city.
pm me your address.

[bond_and_beyond]

Your loosing weight will have a bit to do with it but not really... and what I mean to say is ..if you have pleats.. and you want them to lay properly.. do not tell your tailor that you want a trim leg. It does not work. the pleats will open. you are defeating the purpose of pleats. I will dig out the manipulation when next I am in the city.
pm me your address.

Many thanks again. I sent you a PM (or at least I tried, it is still in the outbox but perhaps that is how it is supposed to be).

Thanks,
BB

[ismailalmurtadza]

Murtazda, yes it is very difficult if one is not a tailor. I had Toninno Christoforo and Raphael to teach me. It needs to be learned just like a carpenter hanging a door or a mechanic replacing a fuel pump. And for Mr Bond, I doubt you tailor will understand what you are saying if he did not do it in the first place but give him a shot. The whole stride is dropped and shortened. This lifts the seat and cleans it out. If he wants I can dig out and send to him a copy of the manipulation. Then he will know too. It is quite simple actually. I refer to this and all of my notes often. But one thing to remember.. Do not trim up pleated trousers. One or the other.

Many thanks again for your advice. Could you perhaps send the manipulation to me so that I might bring it along for my next visit?

I really do like my tailor as he is very service minded and a very likeable fellow, and I am sure he will do his best to sort these trousers out. In all fairness I have lost some weight since the pattern was made.

Pardon my ignorance, but what is meant with "trim up pleated trousers"? One should not taper the legs too much?

Thanks,
BB

I like to have the manipulation too.My tailor is going to appreciate that.

murtadza